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I think I like Doc's answer best - all that metal-to-metal contact and clutch engagement has to be a pretty violent enterprise. I called my dealer's service department and they pronounced it "normal". Sounds reasonable to me. I'm sticking with the Syn3 oil - I don't see any compelling reason to change. Besides, at $12.00 a quart, it has to be good, huh?
I agree. It's a dirty environment, but even though it is there is really no need to overkill the oil used. Synthetic oil in the primary is unnecessary, and any good 20w50 or 10w40 fossil oil is fine. HD specifies a 10k change, but after 5k mine is pretty gunky, and that's the interval I'm using. I usually get some ferrous metal deposits on the magnet, but you can see the clutch material floating around in the oil even after only 5k. I'm just glad HD separates the engine, tranny, and primary oil--unlike some metrics--for this reason.
Sounds like normal clutch plate residue to me. I think gs34doc said it best. I'm running
B & M Trick-Shift in mine. Lucas synthetic 20-50 in the motor and Mobil1 90/140 in the tranny.
I'm a little "old-school", have used the B & M products over the last 30 years and thought I would see how it worked in the primary. With the B & M Trick-shift fluid I'm looking at the cooling aspects as well as the lubricating properties of the fluid. I'll be changing the oil in another 2000 miles and will blogg back as to what I found.
As far as the tranny & motor are concerned, I Like Lucas, AMSOIL & Mobil1 and the other synthetics for air-cooled V-twins. I prefer to use synthetic oil over the conventional (fossil-fuel) oil or synthetic/convetional blends (like the Syn3) because they handle the high heat conditons our motors produce and don't break-down as quickly.
With the tranny, my bike was really making noise in 5th gear (HD said it was normal) I decided to try Mobil1 75/90 gear lube and the tranny immediately quieted down (imagine that!). Because I live in South Florida, I then decided to go to a heaver weight and tried 75/140. The results were even better! Noise was reduced by half and shifting was easier.
As far as your initial question is concerned, they're are some good folks & wrench-pros on this site that can certainly help you out (as could any HD-mechanic), but I don't think you have anything to worry about; your "paste" sounds normal to me. However, If by chance you happen to know a helicopter or airplane mechanic save the paste on a white rag and ask them to evaluate it. They are real pros at evaluating gear box residue and should give you piece of mind.
I've changed my primary oil out three times on my '08 SG (after first 1k on new 103" build and clutch springs, at 5k, and at 10k). I switched over to Syn3 at the 1k change - when I changed it out at 5k, the color of the fluid (greyish brown) and the amount of metallic sludge on the magnet (about 2-3 BB's in size) made the hair on my neck stand up. I switched to Torco primary fluid per the advice of the local indy shop down the road. Last change on fluid (at 10k) - the primary fluid looked brand new and very little sludge on magnet (about 1/4 of a BB). I'll be at 15k in about another month and a half or so - if it looks ugly, I'll let you know.
You've got a primary chain, 2 sprockets, a clutchpack that are all rotating in a metal to metal contact situation. The chain and sprockets are constantly meshing and unmeshing. The clutch plates are constantly engaging and disengaging from the disc surfaces.
I would be more worried if I did not find anything on the magnet.
+1, theres going to be clutch material too if you use the friction zone a lot for control.
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