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wrong Primary oil

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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 04:49 AM
  #11  
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56Maynard
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If you haven't started it yet, don't. Change the primary oil and then party on.

In terms of Austin Rider's opinion of Amsoil, I don't agree. Amsoil is very good oil but I don't think I'd use it for 25,000 miles even with changing filters at 3000 miles and taking samples and having an analysis done every 5,000 miles or more. I have read about it going 400,000 + miles without change in Large trucks with frequent analysis but I couldn't do it.

I know of plenty of Ford motors that didn't make it 60,000 miles or, 6000 miles. At any rate, absent an oil analysis, it would be difficult to pin blame anywhere on his misfortune. One thing that is clear, if Amsoil said it could go 25,000 miles between changes and it was pure "B.S." they wouldn't nor couldn't get away with it because Chevron, BP, Shell, 76, Citgo and all the other players would have an injunction on Amsoil's advertising in about 15 minutes. Amsoil is very clear when it says it is better then Mobil and Mobil don't have the ***** to haul them into court. In contrast, Mobil doesn't have any problem pulling castrol into the courtroom to argue Castrol's formula claims.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 06:07 AM
  #12  
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I put amsoil 10w30 in my primary and it seems to work just fine.. Im maybe gonna change to mobil1 for the engine next though as i see on the advance auto web site that mobil is 7.99 a quart and amsoil is up over 11 a quart now.. Plus i can get the mobil 1 right down the street.
Dave
 
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 06:33 AM
  #13  
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The only problem I can see *might* be clutch slippage, & that's just a guess. I do know you don't need expensive or synthetic oil in the primary. You're only lubricating the primary chain, tensioners, & the clutch. I've been usin' Castrol 20W50 in my FXR for over 20 years & in the FLTR for a little better than a year. It's two best features are that it's inexpensive & can be found everywhere.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 07:11 AM
  #14  
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What will probably happen is your clutch will not release good once the trans oil migrates between the plates.Drain it out now before that happens and put the correct lube in.Otherwize you may have to pull it all apart and clean each plate.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 07:35 AM
  #15  
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You can spend your money on "the correct Oil" (any brand "primaryoil") or you can use ATF fluid. Cost less and works better, In an automatic transmission you have the same stuff doing the same job as in your primary. You have a friction material, bearings, heat removal and a chain. All of these can be found in an automatic transmission, and the frequency of change on a transmission is much farther than anything you put motor oil in. We've used ATF for years, if you use motor oil in the engine, royal purple in the tranny you have the added advantage of color to identify any leaks. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 11:03 AM
  #16  
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The main point is that gear oil is way to heavy to do the correct job in the primary. Don't ride it, let it drain for as long as it takes to stop. Don't worry about what is left, just add whatever else you think belongs in there. I ain't getting into that pointless debate.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 11:21 AM
  #17  
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C'mon; it's only 20-24 ounces--drain the primary and put the correct lube in there.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 11:38 AM
  #18  
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primary oil should not contain"friction modifiers" .you can use 30w dino oil i do and have no problem.basically a chain lube ,your just wasting $$ in the syn oils for the primary imo
 
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 12:03 PM
  #19  
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Drain and refill with 20/50 motor oil of your choice.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 12:27 PM
  #20  
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I use redline also in all the holes and use MTL in the primary. Like it so far
 
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