wrong Primary oil
Since it's already in there, run it.
I highly recommend B&M Trickshift ATF (black bottle) for Primary Fluid
2 qts are needed because the 07-09s hold more ... 38oz when just changing fluid & 45oz if you remove the cover & open up/drain the clutches.
If you're comfortable with doing it, remove the Primary Cover, clean out all the 75/90 oil, pull in the clutch lever & hold it open with a rubber band or something & let it drain out before you change the fluid out. Its not required but its a good practice ....
Jim
www.FastAire.com
You have a sizeable investment in your bike. If your like the rest of us its around 20K. So if you have any doubts go ahead and spend the extra ten bucks or so. You'll probably sleep better at night as well!
The idea of putting ATF in the primary makes good sense to me although I'd never heard of it or thought of it before. Its also probably less expensive than the other products mentioned.
If you go to the dealership they will sell you the same product for both the tranny and primary - Formula+ - so there's something else to think about. Personally I like the RedLine shockproof in my tranny and I noticed a distinct difference with the RedLine MTL in my primary.
As far as my comment on Amsoil - that's just my opinion. A lot of other people out there swear by Amsoil. I am not one of them. Every mechanic I spoke with when having my engine rebuilt said the same thing - you change the oil when it is dirty. Different driving conditions like stop and go traffic or riding in normally hot climates will affect how often this happens. Today's engines tend to be smaller, run at higher RPMs and run at hotter temperatures with hotter thermostats. This causes oil to break down faster and sludge problems develop. Do a google search on "engine sludge" and see how many hits you get.
Our Harleys with their air cooled big twin strokers run at 240 degrees head temperature. It doesn't matter what kind of oil you put in there - synthetic or dino, Mobile 1, Amsoil, Redline, Castrol - you name it, its going to break down and need changing more often. So watch that dipstick.
Okay, sorry. I got off track. Your question related to oil in the primary not engine oil. I think you've probably got enough info here to make a more informed decision.
Good Luck and Good Riding - Enjoy your trip!
BTW: I also use Red Line 20/50 V-Twin in the engine, and Heavy Shockproof in the tranny. Both fully synthetic
Hell, drain the gear lube, add the 10w30, ride it till it's nice and hot and then drain it again to make sure you get that thick *** gear lube out of there. That's what I'd do. I've actually read that synthetic in the primary is almost too slippery and may cause clutch slippage.. who knows. Cheaper is better in this case, it seems. Ride on buddy!
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Several clutch co's like Barnett recommend using ATF-Type F as a primary fluid. An auto's automatic trans is a hostile enviroment compared to HD primary enviroment so it will hold up with no problem. Its a fairly cheap alternative to HDs & others primary fluid & real easy to get, except for B&M which I use at about $7.00 a bottle. Some clutch co's do not recommend using Auto Syn Oil due to friction modifiers that "could" promote slipping... but opinions vary on this one because many bikes circulate the motor oil in the trans & clutch area.
There is also varying opinions as to the correct weight oil for the Primary ... 10w-40, 20w-50, 30wt, ATF.... blah blah. Ive used 20-50 dino oil & ATF will good results
Anyways... just sharing some info. Do what makes ya happy
Jim
www.FastAire.com








