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Metal on primary drain plug

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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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Default Metal on primary drain plug

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I have a 07 Road King at 10000 miles I changed all oils. When draining the primary I found what I would consider an excessive amount of metal on the drain plug. Refilled and added oil ran bike 1 day. Drained oil, same excessive amount of metal on plug, just drained oil third time today after a week of riding 140 miles, same thing, metal shavings on plug. The bike is not making any noise, clutch is working fine.

Any ideas?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 06:33 PM
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Some particles on magnet is normal. Your excessive and others excessive might be different. Is a photo possible? Did you adjust clutch when oil was changed? What kind of oil are you using?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 06:52 PM
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The entire magnet was covered with metal filings, like you would see from using a file on a piece of metal.

I used the SYN3 20/50 at 1000 (or the dealer claimed they did) and I changed it at 5000 and used the SYN3 20/50. At 10000 (first change) I used mobil 1 ATF. Second change after 1 day of driving I used Penzoil ATF. I just drained it after 140 miles (1 week) and I am still seeing the same amount of filings as the first time I changed it at 10k.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 07:07 PM
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I would say the filings on your 1st oil change was normal. The 2nd and 3rd oil change I would not think is normal. Transmission fluid may be cleaning up since it is so thin. The Visc. on the Pennzoil ATF is 7.60@100c and Amsoil MCV 20W50 is 20.1@100c. Wasn't sure where to find Visc. on SYN3 should be close to the same as MCV. I would change oil in primary back to primary oil. May want to flush out trans fluid a couple times to get it all out.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 07:17 PM
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I just completed my 10,000 mile service a few days ago and noticed more "crap" on the magnet from the primary versus engine and transmission. If it was the size of a pencil eraser head I'd be concerned. Take it to dealer and have them check it out since it should still be under warranty being a 2007 if you think you have an issue. Did you change your primary while engine was still at or close to operating temp?
 

Last edited by wagsrk08; Sep 18, 2008 at 07:20 PM.
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 07:29 PM
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I had the exact same problem on my '08 Road Glide - metal shavings and gunk that altogether would not have been quite the volume of a pencil eraser after about 5k miles since the last oil change. Then I started hearing what I thought was an excessive amount of chain noise. It got worse over the course of a couple of weeks to the point where I was feeling excessive vibration in the footboard. Took it to the dealer and it turned out that the clutch bearing and race were shot. Warranty fix, and now all is well. Dealer said that he had never seen that before in all his years as a service writer. Then last week he had two - both on '08 touring models.

Hmmm....
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 08:30 PM
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I will be seeing the dealer tomorrow
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 08:54 PM
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Starter gear.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 06:13 AM
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amike -

Didn't even think of that - considering all the gnashing and thrashing that's going on inside the primary cover, it would seem that some metal will show up on the plug. Especially considering how every now and then my starter seems to "miss a beat" when I hit the button and it sounds like the engine is exploding under me! I've taken to pumping the clutch lever a couple of times and putting the bike in neutral before I hit the starter button. I seem to get much better engagement and minimize the failure of the starter gear to actuate properly this way.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Pastor John
amike -

Didn't even think of that - considering all the gnashing and thrashing that's going on inside the primary cover, it would seem that some metal will show up on the plug. Especially considering how every now and then my starter seems to "miss a beat" when I hit the button and it sounds like the engine is exploding under me! I've taken to pumping the clutch lever a couple of times and putting the bike in neutral before I hit the starter button. I seem to get much better engagement and minimize the failure of the starter gear to actuate properly this way.
By putting the bike in neutral before you hit the starter button will help out. It will put much less unnecessary stress on the starter motor because a cold engine = a cold clutch & primary lube....sometimes (most times) the friction plates stick to the metal plates because of the surface tension of the cold oil, and it feels almost like its in gear. So when you hit the starter button, the starter motor not only has to turn over a big *** V-twin, but it also has to bust the clutch plates loose from each other. I guess it would be cool if you put in a 2.0kw starter.....but why if you dont *need* it.
 
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