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The Real Oil Change

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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 03:53 PM
  #11  
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It's a shame they don't have one that works for my ride! Something that is a time tested way of cleaning your engine is to drain the oil then fill the case with Automatic transmission fluid. Then ride the bike for about 5-10 minutes or just let it idle for 10 minutes then drain the case. Refill with clean oil and install new filter. The detergents and the thinner oil cleans out all the nooks and crannies. You would not believe how well this works.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 04:07 PM
  #12  
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You would be leaving a quart of the (mostly) ATF in the sump and blending your fresh oil with it.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 04:24 PM
  #13  
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True but you can probably flush with fresh oil and refill. I know this works on cars but you are right about oil remaining in the sump.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 04:35 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by frog13
If you want to see the system go to their website www.roguechopper.com,this system really blew me away.
Should have been more careful with the link www.roguechopper.com

Rogue say's you should get about 32 ounces out,but I got about 61 ounces of terrible looking oil out my my engine.
Actually they say 24 oz., but I been doin' this a long time and if I dumped my oil and was a quart shy of what I put in, I would be freakin'. If I tore down my engine and still had 61oz. in it, I would be even more worried.

So if you're like I was; you know pull the plug, and wait till the tank had completely dripped it's last drop forget it you're wasting your time.
Curious, how many guys have had an oil related problem on their HD that was not just plain negligence, oil pump failure, etc.?

That was the first surprise,the second was how my bike ran after,seemed like the friction factor in the engine had dropped by 50% or more.
I would be interested in how to measure the friction in my engine so I can do some comparison testing, can you let us know how to measure? So, how much higher does my idle go if I reduce friction by 50%?

Where I used to hold my throttle to be @60,now I was running 65.
Once again, how do I measure this, do I scribe a mark on my grip or what?

Not trying to be a smart ***, but been changing my oil the same way for thirty five years with no oil related mechanical failures and I'm not sure why I need to spend more money on a tool to do something that is not really neccesary unless maybe I was trying to set a world record for engine longevity.

On a side note, I used to drain the oil on my shovel, dump a fresh quart in the tank, pull the return hose and roll the starter until clean oil came through the return. Sort of the same idea .......... but hey, I'm old school, what do I know?
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! some VERY GOOD Points
 
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 04:36 PM
  #15  
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61 ounces

Isn't that close to 2 quarts?

I think I would know if I was missing 2 quarts of oil and if that much is remaining in the engine you probably have some other major issue you need to look into.

If your engine and oil system is operating correctly then there is no need for any special technique or process to change the oil. The small amount that remains will be well diluted by the new oil. If the unit is so old you are concerned about sludge then try the ATF or some other solvent. Just be sure to change it out immediately.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 04:42 PM
  #16  
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Man I got to say,posting here is like throwing meat to gator's,hey Doc I've heard of what your saying but using Marvel Mystery Oil.You know Harley has come so far from where they were,I hadn't rode one of them sense almost cashing in the farm on one in 79,but I'm off of subject about oil,and changing it.I get a rush when a new product come's along,and actually work's,and I know everyone has their opinion about this,plus I know what their site's say's too.I didn't quote off of it,but I do have the product,and I know what it did do for sure. Most people are are using synthetic oil's in their engine's,and tranies,today,so it really doesn't matter if some old oil is left in your case,sense synthetic's really go far,and above conventional motor oil.I know there will probley be someone here ready to jump on that,but I have a 1993 Kenworth W900B that I haul equipment with.Last month my driver coming in,and the oil pump stopped working,he just happened to look down,at the gauge(it read 0),shut it down coasted to the shoulder.We hauled it in replaced the oil pump,changed the oil,and it's running fine,so that was really a revelation to me on synthetic oil.No way that would have happened with reg rotella,or whatever you use. Enjoy the ride,leave your worries behind.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 04:56 PM
  #17  
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This is for those that don't know:
Boys, there ain't no crankcase sump on a big twin. Never has been. It's known as a dry sump system and the oil is stored in a reservoir seperate from the motor. It is then pumped to the motor.
I've drained the motor seperate from the oil tank and have never gotten more than 4-6 oz. of oil. That's all that remains in the motor when you only drain the tank. The clown that posted originally (and he's posted more than once, same post) claiming he got 61 oz. of oil from his crankcase is full of excrement to his eyes. Also, if you want to run ATF in your motor be my guest - NOT something I'm ever going to do.
Motor oil in the motor, gear lube in the tranny, and ATF in the primary. Works every time.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 05:37 PM
  #18  
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BTW guys . . . if you have an 07, 08, or 09 . . . you can quit reading this thread. They don't make a system for these years. Only up to 06.

Steve
 
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 05:46 PM
  #19  
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ummmm, Mr. harley service writer, all I did was run some ATF in my motor. I just don't understand why you won't warranty it.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 06:00 PM
  #20  
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I get about 30-ish ounces of dirty oil before the new stuff starts coming out when I use the Scavenger.
Whatever makes you happy. If you think it's a good idea, get one. If you think it's not worth it don't. It isn't like the guy's puttin' a gun to you head. Geez.

CN
 
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