Inner fairing change
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,824
Likes: 59
From: SW Burbs of Chicago
Inner fairing change
I want to change my inner fairing to a painted one. I bought a new one in the box from ebay for 225.00 bucks.. Anybody done it themself? Any tips or tricks? Stealer wants 240.00 bucks to change it.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,449
Likes: 46
From: Roswell, GA
Lots of HDF'ers (myself included) have removed and reinstalled the inner fairing. Buy the HD Service Manual for your bike and follow the excellent directions there. Don't know what FLHT's problem was.
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,824
Likes: 59
From: SW Burbs of Chicago
Anything I need to watchout for? Did you guy remove clutch cable from lever? Any other tips or tricks?
Trending Topics
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,449
Likes: 46
From: Roswell, GA
TIP #1--BUY THE HD SERVICE MANUAL FOR YOUR BIKE. Yes, the clutch, throttle and idle cables are removed from the handlebars in order to remove the inner fairing. It's not so much the dissassembly that requires the manual, as it is correctly reassembling and adjusting these cables, etc.
Cover the fender (and the gas tank too if you are prone to "droppage" as I am), have plenty of light (it's dark inside the fairing), and an extra pair of hands when removing/installing the innner fairing is helpful, but not necessary. Bag and label the small stuff. Buy a couple extra brass throttle/idle cable retainers--they are easily lost and they're cheap job interuption insurance--return for refund what you don't use, or keep them for your next project.
Take your time.
Cover the fender (and the gas tank too if you are prone to "droppage" as I am), have plenty of light (it's dark inside the fairing), and an extra pair of hands when removing/installing the innner fairing is helpful, but not necessary. Bag and label the small stuff. Buy a couple extra brass throttle/idle cable retainers--they are easily lost and they're cheap job interuption insurance--return for refund what you don't use, or keep them for your next project.
Take your time.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
The Best and Worst Harley-Davidson Moves of 2025
Verdad Gallardo
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 2
From: canada
Good to know - I'll be starting mine tomorrow.
Of course, the worst part was all the extras.
I already have Kury grips, chrome levers & mirrors. Since I have to take the throttle & clutch cable off, I might as well change to a chrome bracket & master cylinder. Since I bought those, I might as well buy chrome mounting bolts. Since I'm chroming those, I might as well get the chrome switch housings. Since I'm taking the switch housings apart, I might as well buy chrome switches. Since I bought a chrome master, I might as well install Diamondback braided front lines. Since the inner is coming out, I might as well get Hogtunes speakers for the front. Since the throttle & clutch lines are coming off, I might as well get chrome throttle cable adjuster covers, and banjo bolt covers.
My guess would be my final cost is around $2000 by the time I'm done!!!
Am I missing anything?
Ha-ha. $250. It's like running downhill with scissors.
Cannon
Of course, the worst part was all the extras.
I already have Kury grips, chrome levers & mirrors. Since I have to take the throttle & clutch cable off, I might as well change to a chrome bracket & master cylinder. Since I bought those, I might as well buy chrome mounting bolts. Since I'm chroming those, I might as well get the chrome switch housings. Since I'm taking the switch housings apart, I might as well buy chrome switches. Since I bought a chrome master, I might as well install Diamondback braided front lines. Since the inner is coming out, I might as well get Hogtunes speakers for the front. Since the throttle & clutch lines are coming off, I might as well get chrome throttle cable adjuster covers, and banjo bolt covers.
My guess would be my final cost is around $2000 by the time I'm done!!!
Am I missing anything?
Ha-ha. $250. It's like running downhill with scissors.
Cannon
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,364
Likes: 33
From: So Cal The Golden State
TIP #1--BUY THE HD SERVICE MANUAL FOR YOUR BIKE. Yes, the clutch, throttle and idle cables are removed from the handlebars in order to remove the inner fairing. It's not so much the dissassembly that requires the manual, as it is correctly reassembling and adjusting these cables, etc.
Cover the fender (and the gas tank too if you are prone to "droppage" as I am), have plenty of light (it's dark inside the fairing), and an extra pair of hands when removing/installing the innner fairing is helpful, but not necessary. Bag and label the small stuff. Buy a couple extra brass throttle/idle cable retainers--they are easily lost and they're cheap job interuption insurance--return for refund what you don't use, or keep them for your next project.
Take your time.
Cover the fender (and the gas tank too if you are prone to "droppage" as I am), have plenty of light (it's dark inside the fairing), and an extra pair of hands when removing/installing the innner fairing is helpful, but not necessary. Bag and label the small stuff. Buy a couple extra brass throttle/idle cable retainers--they are easily lost and they're cheap job interuption insurance--return for refund what you don't use, or keep them for your next project.
Take your time.
Also the tip that I got on this board about using a .250 long screw driver for the ingnition alignment tool was great.