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Stator Test?

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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 09:10 PM
  #1  
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Default Stator Test?

Freakin manual sucks! 02 Police FLHT, 45 amp, the manual sucks , but naturally HDForum comes thru. Little search and I found a stator test for a short, has you take a stator lead and the other to the cylinder and check for continuity, should be an open. Is this a valid test for the stator? (Fingers Crossed) I'll do the voltage output test in the a.m. Damn manual doesn't have crap in it for testing. If you know what's wrong and need to remove it fine...but just a little damn troubleshooting info, like output voltages and resistance readings would be nice for the price!

Rant Over, Thanks I needed that
 
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 09:48 AM
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Bump
 
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 09:59 AM
  #3  
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My guess you will need to get the electrical manual.....I have a copy for my 07.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 12:07 PM
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I do not know what the ohms are suppose to be be the voltage test is simple. At idle, there should be 12-16 volts ac. As you ramp up the rpms the voltage should rise and at 2500+ there should be 65-80 + volts ac. The brand new stator in my Ultra is exactly 15 at idle and 77 at 2500. Hope that helps.
 

Last edited by FXSTDSE2; Dec 6, 2008 at 12:09 PM.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 12:11 PM
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hardluk1
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I do not have a currant manual to help but my 86 and 97 manual covers a info needed for testing . Is yours a hd service manual or aftermarket.. Not the crappy one that came with the bike. Find a buddy that has american iron mags,they had a very good tech articale about 2 months back.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 01:22 PM
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The factory manuals for some reason have omitted the specifications. Both my 02 and 04 manuals give no information. I have checked many years and model stators and the #s I listed are average. It could be a conspiracy or something! I know the dealer wants to sell both the stator and regulator at the same time. I also have replaced the circuit breakers on a number of bikes in the past. The last one was on an 03 RKC that HD told the guy it needed a stator and a regulator. He couldn't afford the repairs so I stopped by his house to actually diagnose which one needed to be replaced. As usual, I get the bike running, put a jumper wire on the circuit breaker and bingo, it is now charging. Changed the breaker and no charging problems since. I also have run across 2 wacky regulators. One time it would charge, next time it would not, and another time it would overcharge.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 02:01 PM
  #7  
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My notes from school: you'll have to decypher them cuz I'm going riding now! Written for a three-pin system and you can't do #3 through 5 without a multimeter (DVOM) with inductor or a Powerlink-type tester but the rest give most everything to check. Parenthesis means the value you should expect to see (i.e.: "CONTINUITY" or "OFL").

CHARGING SYSTEM TESTS

*All tests performed with battery tender disconnected!
1. SYSTEM ID:______________
38 amp: 2001& UP SOFTAIL/2004 DYNA, 3-phase 45 amp:1997-2005 ULTRA 50 amp: 2006 FLT 22 amp: XL exc. 2007 & up, 32 amp, full wave

2. MAX VOLTAGE:__________VDC (13.5-15VDC)
POWERLINK or DVOM CONNECT TO BATTERY LEADS RUNNING REV TO 3K RECORD VALUE

3. MAX CURRENT/VOLTAGE OUTPUT:__________AMP (MINIMUM OF 85% OF SYSTEM RATING)
POWERLINK or DVOM WITH INDUCTIVE LEAD CONNECT TO BATTERY INDUCTOR ON MAIN C.B. {SMALL BLK WIRE TO REGULATOR} ZERO RUNNING REV TO 3K ADD LOAD TO 13V RECORD AMP VALUE DISCONNECT P-LINK (-) TO RESET {MUST BE LESS THAN 15 VOLTS}

4. CURRENT DRAW:__________ AMP
POWERLINK or DVOM WITH INDUCTIVE LEAD CONNECT TO BATTERY INDUCTOR TO BATTERY (-) DISCONNECT STATOR DEUTCH RUNNING REV TO 3K ENERGIZE LOADS RECORD VALUE

5. CURRENT LEFT TO CHARGE BATTERY:__________AMP
SUBTRACT #4 FROM #3 RECORD VALUE

6. MINIMUM REQUIRED: 3.5 AMP

7. STATOR OUTPUT: 1K__________VAC __________VAC __________VAC
2K__________VAC __________VAC __________ VAC
3K__________ VAC __________ VAC __________ VAC
(16-20, 32-40, & 48-60VAC) DVOM ON “VAC” CHECK AT STATOR DEUTCH FEMALE
{3-phase: Pin 1-2, 1-3,& 2-3} REV TO 3K RECORD EACH VALUE

8. STATOR RESISTANCE: 1-2_______ 1-3_______ 2-3_______(0.1-0.3 ohms)
KEY OFF DVOM TO “OHMS” CHECKING PINS 1-2, 1-3, & 2-3 RECORD VALUES

9. STATOR GROUND:_______OHMS (OFL)
KEY OFF DVOM TO “OHMS” RED LEAD TO PIN 1, 2, & 3 BLK LEAD TO GROUND RECORD VALUE

10. REGULATOR GROUND:_______OHMS (CONTINUITY)
RED LEAD TO REGULATOR (BARE METAL or GROUND LEAD) BLK LEAD TO GROUND RECORD VALUE

11. MILLI-AMP DRAW:_______ADC
DVOM TO “AMP” SETTING DVOM AT MAXI-FUSE or DISCONNECTED BATTERY (-) TERMINAL RED LEAD TO BATTERY (-) TOWER BLK LEAD TO BATTERY (-) CABLE KEY OFF RECORD VALUE
 
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 12:23 PM
  #8  
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@%$%^^% shorted stator! Thanks folks,

Robzuc97 I'm up in Williams was down in the valley Sat. for the Gun Show, no snow yet up here that's why I was itchin to ride.

Anybody know the difficulty level changing a stator? Spent too much at the Gun Show!
 
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 01:18 PM
  #9  
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I have done a few and it is relatively easy if you have the right tools. Less then a day job. The hd service manual has all the info you will need. You are looking at about $200 total in parts. I have seen stator bolts shear so follow the manual instructions and replace them.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 02:03 PM
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Hardest part is getting the torques right on the the compensater nut (150-ish ft-lbs) and clutch (70-ish ft-lbs.) also left-handed threads or remove by turning CW. It's not "mandatory" but I changed mine last summer because the pins were weak and it leaked fluid and the o-ring beneath the primary cover on my '97 FLSTC then developed a leak and had to do AGAIN! so I would recommend changing as many seals as you can get or want to while in there. Also have to look out for the starter gear shaft (wrong name I'm sure but an extension that goes from starter to the clutch gear) direction.
 
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