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I always replace the O rings at the top. Please make sure you have the front wheel off of the ground. There will be a little pressure on the plugs. Loaded, the fork springs are dangerous. This is a good opportunity to do a fluid change, just drain the sliders and pump them a little. Don't refill as you would for "dry" forks (complete disassembly).
You're gonna love those springs. Very high up on my "best bang for the buck" list.
I always replace the O rings at the top. Please make sure you have the front wheel off of the ground. There will be a little pressure on the plugs. Loaded, the fork springs are dangerous. This is a good opportunity to do a fluid change, just drain the sliders and pump them a little. Don't refill as you would for "dry" forks (complete disassembly).
You're gonna love those springs. Very high up on my "best bang for the buck" list.
Thanks Beemervet that's what I like to hear. At least the work will be worth it. BTW, I'm also putting on 440's to go with the springs. I've done several spring changes before on sport bikes. It was pretty straight forward and access was very simple. Doing the Ultra is a little more complicated I guess by the lack of access to the fork tube itself and all the stuff you need to remove just to get at it.
I figure by what's been said and looking at the manual it's about the same as any other fork once you get the tube off the bike. Be careful relieving the spring pressure when removing the cap. Pull out the spring, check oil level, cut the spacer to recommended size (1.75"), put back new spring and spacer, new o-ring, and cap it back up. No need to do anything else for just a spring change.
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