Passing Lights
How useful are the touring passing lights? I'm concidering them for my Street Glide, but I don't want to spend the money if they're just so much Bling. I don't ride that much on dark country roads, but when I do, the SG's single head lamp doesn't really light up the road ahead of me.
I have an SG and opted not to add the passing lamps, although there are many possibilities available with them. In stock form they work only with low-beams and can handle only moderate increases in output without using a relay. With a relay you can use high-output pencil beams (e.g. CCI #15085 or #15086), etc. and wire them to high-beams, low-beams, or both.
I had the 37.5W lights on my old RK and they worked very well wired for low-beam only, but I had to add a relay because the total lighting-circuit amperage exceeded the breaker's capacity when an 80/100w headlight bulb was used.
The stock non-fluted headlight is IMO big on bling, small on light output with a very weak pattern. Based on previous experience with European-code headlights on cars, what I decided to do is buy a Hella E-code headlight and an 80/100w bulb, about $45 plus shipping. Check out this thread and scroll down six messages to mine where I go into the details with links, etc. I installed an 80/100w bulb in the stock headlight the day I bought the bike, but adding the Hella headlight 18 months later made a big difference in pattern and output, both on low- and high-beam.
I had the 37.5W lights on my old RK and they worked very well wired for low-beam only, but I had to add a relay because the total lighting-circuit amperage exceeded the breaker's capacity when an 80/100w headlight bulb was used.
The stock non-fluted headlight is IMO big on bling, small on light output with a very weak pattern. Based on previous experience with European-code headlights on cars, what I decided to do is buy a Hella E-code headlight and an 80/100w bulb, about $45 plus shipping. Check out this thread and scroll down six messages to mine where I go into the details with links, etc. I installed an 80/100w bulb in the stock headlight the day I bought the bike, but adding the Hella headlight 18 months later made a big difference in pattern and output, both on low- and high-beam.
When I had my RK I experimented with some friends by riding the bike down the road in daylight and observing the light output with high-beams (no passing lamps) vs. low-beams with passing lamps. I had 37.5W pencil beams on the passing lamps at the time which were much brighter than stock. Using 80/100W bulbs the high-beam was more visible even though only one light was working vs. three. Everyone present agreed on that, but YMMV. I later added a modulator (high-beam only) and high-beam now is an even more visible option in daylight.
I use moto lights with amber bulbs mounted on the brake calipers. They look like they are part of the bike and are very noticable to those folks thinking of pulling out in front of me.
Have not had a left turner or pull-out in the four years I've been using them and I ride about 24k per year.
Have not had a left turner or pull-out in the four years I've been using them and I ride about 24k per year.
It is very unlikely both high- and low-beam filaments in the headlight will go out at once, and the passing lamps are on the same fuse as the headlight. So, if the fuse blows everything on the lighting circuit goes dark, including the passing lamps, running lights, etc. However, if the headlight bulb breaks, which would also be unlikely since it is well-protected, the headlight would be dead yet the passing lamps would still work.
IF my headlight burns out etc. The fog lights are on an independent fuse/switch.
I also put a $13.00 Sylvania HID style bulb in the main.. You will love that.. Much Brighter..!!!
Last edited by captsam54; Dec 23, 2008 at 07:49 AM.
Ride with mine on all the time. Changed out the fluted lenses for clear lens, now have to modify circuit so they stay on when bright light is on.






