Flush or no flush???
I'm going to be taking out the ATF in the primary over the next few days. I need some good advise, please. Is it okay to have left over ATF in the Primary along with the new Formula+? Or should it be flushed out by spraying something in through the Derby cover?
And what would you use to flush/spray it?
My plan is to drain as much of the ATF as will come out in a first change, and refill it with new Formula+, and run it for a few days (50 +/- miles) and drain it again, hopefully removing a large enough amount of ATF in the process.
And what are people using to re-wrap the drain plug? Plumbers white tape, or is this a HD specific tape. (1st time changing Primary!!)
Please help me with this.
Will this be okay to mix these two, or............??
Thanks in advance for the help.
And what would you use to flush/spray it?My plan is to drain as much of the ATF as will come out in a first change, and refill it with new Formula+, and run it for a few days (50 +/- miles) and drain it again, hopefully removing a large enough amount of ATF in the process.
And what are people using to re-wrap the drain plug? Plumbers white tape, or is this a HD specific tape. (1st time changing Primary!!)
Please help me with this.
Will this be okay to mix these two, or............??

Thanks in advance for the help.
The local indy put it in while repairing a leaking seal and I didn't know about it until after the fact. Seems others have used ATF also. He's a well known indy so I decided to go with it. But after a short time I've noticed the shifting characteristic has changed, and coming out into first gear has a slight jump now that wsn't there before. Everything seems more abrupt. Since I dont care about the cost or effort involved to change it out, And I'd like to do it myself, I'd like to hear what opinions are about the method of change, as I've described above.
Maybe you just need to adjust your primary. I doubt the ATF would cause the problem, as many use it. Not necessary though. Check the primary chain tension and clutch adjustment.
I would just lay it over on the jiffy stand and let it fully drain. Fill it with Formula + or any good 10W/40 motor oil. What little residual ATF is left in the primary will not harm anything. Change it out after 10K miles. Your drain plug doesn't need any thread tape.You should replace the O ring and torque the drain plug to 36-60 in-lbs.Try adjusting the clutch basket and cable and primary chain tension.
If you want to do a flush and run, just use an inexpensive 10W/40 and run with that for a bit. Then you can add Formula+ and be done.
If you want to do a flush and run, just use an inexpensive 10W/40 and run with that for a bit. Then you can add Formula+ and be done.
Last edited by soos; Dec 23, 2008 at 10:43 PM.
Soos,
I think my '01 drain plug is pre 'o'-ring era, hense the tape question. I do like the idea of a cheaper flush and run though. I'll double check the book.
And the clutch was adjusted when the primary went back on, after the leak was repaired.
I think my '01 drain plug is pre 'o'-ring era, hense the tape question. I do like the idea of a cheaper flush and run though. I'll double check the book.
And the clutch was adjusted when the primary went back on, after the leak was repaired.
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Soos,
The book calls for "Loctite Pipe Sealant w/Teflon 565". I'll take a guess that's a tape. Since never having had the experience of pulling the plug, I want to have everything I need at my side, ready to go.
The book calls for "Loctite Pipe Sealant w/Teflon 565". I'll take a guess that's a tape. Since never having had the experience of pulling the plug, I want to have everything I need at my side, ready to go.







