Lower Fork Chrome Sliders
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 340
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From: Illinois
Lower Fork Chrome Sliders
Ok, I have my Lower Fork Chrome Sliders on its way. Got it on Ebay for about a buck and a half. Yes, I'm going to tackle the job myself on the Street Glide. Has anyone done it? I"m assuming the fork oil needs to be drained. Any advice?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Washington State
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,520
Likes: 3,953
From: Vermont
Since you got an FLH you're going to have to pull the ignition and switch cap to get to the fork caps also. You can make the tool out of PVC to drive the seals. If you have an impact wrench it works best for the 6mm bolts on the underside. You can also make your own 6mm allen socket if you don't have one.....that's what I did. If you don't have an impact wrench you may have success by sticking a flatblade screwdriver in the caliper bolt holes and using it for leverage...that's also what I did. You may also consider changing to a different weight of fork fluid unless your happy with the type E
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,548
Likes: 163
From: Mt. Airy, MD
I just did the switch on my roadglide. Not a bad job, take your time. Get a manual if you don't have one... it has step-by-step instructions that are well-written. You do not need any special tools. I used a length of PVC pipe, split lengthwise, as my fork seal driver. After I had it together I saw a pic where someone used a pvc coupler, ground down on the end for their driver, which I think I will do next time.
I also added progressive fork springs and SE 20w fork oil while I was in there.
I also added progressive fork springs and SE 20w fork oil while I was in there.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 3
From: Hudson Valley- NY
I just finished the job on my Road King, the only difference between your bike and mine is the cartridge inside the one front fork, the left one I believe. First all, it is a little time consuming, more so for you since you have to pull the entire front end apart. Once all of the faring and other parts are removed, it's pretty straight forward. Here is my advice:
1- Buy the factory service manual, read it over and over to make sure you are comfortable with work involved, which is pretty straight forward.
2- Buy all of the needed parts ahead of time, nothing like getting into the middle of the swap and find out you need new fork seals, etc. These would include the seals (recommended), crush washers for the 6 mm allen bolt that holds the sliders on and the drain screws if your bike is so equipped.
3- Take your time, don't try to rush through this on a Saturday afternoon, it is a little time consuming for the first try.
4- If you have any problems, post them here, or PM anyone who's done the job, nothing you can't handle if you're reasonably mechanically inclined and have a decent set of tools. One thing you will need is a long shank 6 mm hex bit to get the one slider bolt out, it's in pretty deep. The other one can be removed with a shorter allen wrench, an air impact tool is helpful.
Good Luck, it looks more involved than it really is.
1- Buy the factory service manual, read it over and over to make sure you are comfortable with work involved, which is pretty straight forward.
2- Buy all of the needed parts ahead of time, nothing like getting into the middle of the swap and find out you need new fork seals, etc. These would include the seals (recommended), crush washers for the 6 mm allen bolt that holds the sliders on and the drain screws if your bike is so equipped.
3- Take your time, don't try to rush through this on a Saturday afternoon, it is a little time consuming for the first try.
4- If you have any problems, post them here, or PM anyone who's done the job, nothing you can't handle if you're reasonably mechanically inclined and have a decent set of tools. One thing you will need is a long shank 6 mm hex bit to get the one slider bolt out, it's in pretty deep. The other one can be removed with a shorter allen wrench, an air impact tool is helpful.
Good Luck, it looks more involved than it really is.
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 382
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I just did mine also, take your time and you'll have no trouble. Every tip I can think of has done been metioned, good luck.
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
The instructions in the service manual for the fork oil seals are a little vague. If you look at the inside lips of the seal, there is a single lip and a double lip. The double lip goes on the oil side (faces down). The book says something about a spring being visible on the top of the seal when it is oriented correctly. Problem is that you can see a spring from both sides of the seal. After having leaks with 3 HD seals on one of my forks I ordered a set of Drag Specialties seals and the directions that came with them was much clearer.
The first time around it was about a 5 hour job. Now I can do it in 2.
The first time around it was about a 5 hour job. Now I can do it in 2.