Lower Fork Chrome Sliders
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,802
Likes: 2
From: Salt Lake City, UT. Dushore, Pa.
I took the radio out, very easy, rather than messing with the switch to get to the fork cap bolt. There is another thread on this mentioned you can use the axle wrench in you kit to get these loose, not much room. Shop charges 3 hr. but like elmosac says 5hr. first time. Good luck.
Banned
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 11,436
Likes: 13
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Savannah GA area
Just finished this weekend on a RK...and it does look a lot better!!! I will get some pics in my sig soon.
-I had a manual; made a $3.00 seal driver from a 2-foot, 2" dia. PVC which I cut 8 blade widths from a chop saw, then strapped with a hose clamp (like the cut down one too). Bought a 1-3/8ths wrench for the fork leg nut.
1. Don't be Skeered. The most anxious time I had was figuring out the precise amount of oil and how to get there without the 50 dollar tool. I ended up using a small liquid measure cup graduated from 10-60 ML (60=1/4 cup). 11.1 oz is 328.17 ML. I added 5.5 cupfuls (330ML). I know that is not very precise but, nothing on the bike is that finely engineered.
2. Did not have a vise, so I did not tear down further than pulling the legs out of the trees.
3. Go to the dealer and get two 6mm replacement screws, plus 2 copper washers (the kit did not have them). You may want to make sure you have the drain screws in the kit.
4. Tape/mask your fender, make sure you torque correctly, though I assumed risk on the fork leg nut
After that follow the todds harley pix link these cool dudes gave you.
Good Luck!!!
-I had a manual; made a $3.00 seal driver from a 2-foot, 2" dia. PVC which I cut 8 blade widths from a chop saw, then strapped with a hose clamp (like the cut down one too). Bought a 1-3/8ths wrench for the fork leg nut.
1. Don't be Skeered. The most anxious time I had was figuring out the precise amount of oil and how to get there without the 50 dollar tool. I ended up using a small liquid measure cup graduated from 10-60 ML (60=1/4 cup). 11.1 oz is 328.17 ML. I added 5.5 cupfuls (330ML). I know that is not very precise but, nothing on the bike is that finely engineered.
2. Did not have a vise, so I did not tear down further than pulling the legs out of the trees.
3. Go to the dealer and get two 6mm replacement screws, plus 2 copper washers (the kit did not have them). You may want to make sure you have the drain screws in the kit.
4. Tape/mask your fender, make sure you torque correctly, though I assumed risk on the fork leg nut
After that follow the todds harley pix link these cool dudes gave you.
Good Luck!!!
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
I just finished the job on my Road King, the only difference between your bike and mine is the cartridge inside the one front fork, the left one I believe. First all, it is a little time consuming, more so for you since you have to pull the entire front end apart. Once all of the faring and other parts are removed, it's pretty straight forward. Here is my advice:
1- Buy the factory service manual, read it over and over to make sure you are comfortable with work involved, which is pretty straight forward.
2- Buy all of the needed parts ahead of time, nothing like getting into the middle of the swap and find out you need new fork seals, etc. These would include the seals (recommended), crush washers for the 6 mm allen bolt that holds the sliders on and the drain screws if your bike is so equipped.
3- Take your time, don't try to rush through this on a Saturday afternoon, it is a little time consuming for the first try.
4- If you have any problems, post them here, or PM anyone who's done the job, nothing you can't handle if you're reasonably mechanically inclined and have a decent set of tools. One thing you will need is a long shank 6 mm hex bit to get the one slider bolt out, it's in pretty deep. The other one can be removed with a shorter allen wrench, an air impact tool is helpful.
Good Luck, it looks more involved than it really is.
1- Buy the factory service manual, read it over and over to make sure you are comfortable with work involved, which is pretty straight forward.
2- Buy all of the needed parts ahead of time, nothing like getting into the middle of the swap and find out you need new fork seals, etc. These would include the seals (recommended), crush washers for the 6 mm allen bolt that holds the sliders on and the drain screws if your bike is so equipped.
3- Take your time, don't try to rush through this on a Saturday afternoon, it is a little time consuming for the first try.
4- If you have any problems, post them here, or PM anyone who's done the job, nothing you can't handle if you're reasonably mechanically inclined and have a decent set of tools. One thing you will need is a long shank 6 mm hex bit to get the one slider bolt out, it's in pretty deep. The other one can be removed with a shorter allen wrench, an air impact tool is helpful.
Good Luck, it looks more involved than it really is.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
Just do a search on chrome fork sliders. You will get a crap-load.
They have sold from $140 to $220 and up
Last edited by King Crimson; Jan 14, 2009 at 11:23 PM.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
I'm capturing everyone's notes and advice and putting them into a master document. I can't thank you enough. Don't think I would have known all of this stuff by reading the service manual. Especially the creative tools.
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