Looking at a 2001 Road King Classic
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 192
Likes: 1
Looking at a 2001 Road King Classic
Hey all you touring Guys. I have always ridden softails and am contemplating my first touring bike.
I found a guy with a 2001 EFI with 15,000 miles in the $10k range. I have no idea what to look for as far as problems, or clues to past or future problems on a Road King. I have a friend who had a RK of this vintage and had nothing but problems with it. Was that an isolated incident or a trend?
How about the price, sound fair?
Thanks for any help
I found a guy with a 2001 EFI with 15,000 miles in the $10k range. I have no idea what to look for as far as problems, or clues to past or future problems on a Road King. I have a friend who had a RK of this vintage and had nothing but problems with it. Was that an isolated incident or a trend?
How about the price, sound fair?
Thanks for any help
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,183
Likes: 1
From: Lenexa, KS (KC)
I've got a 2000 Electra Glide Classic and it's a great bike (after I replaced my primary chain tensioners with gear drives). $10k sounds a little high, but that might depend on what he's done with it.
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 153
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From:
I have a 2001 Road King Classic with EFI. It has been a great bike. After adding a cruise control (Cruisemount) I have everything I could wanted from a newer bike. You are likely to love the 3:37 final gear ratio that comes with this model year. Many forum members have or want to change their grear ratio to what this bike has.
Like Taterdog, I had to replace my tensioners (24 K) and went with gear drives. If you ever want to go to gear driven cams, it is VERY likely that the quality of this older engine build will allow for it.
Like Taterdog, I had to replace my tensioners (24 K) and went with gear drives. If you ever want to go to gear driven cams, it is VERY likely that the quality of this older engine build will allow for it.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
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The only less desireable (to some) thing on a 2001 is the Marelli FI system. Some guys had trouble. I have not. I have 73k miles on my 2000. My FI works great. The good thing about a 2001 is that it has the stronger and truer forged crank in it compared to the cast crank in the '03-up bikes.
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 12
From: SE Florida
2001 here and wont ever sell it. It's a carbed version and that's the way I would look for one. Runs cooler, less expensive to modify and no electronics.
I might be shopping for a new '09, but the '01 stays.
Have it check carefully by a good indy, and if it checks out okay, EFI included, buy it!!
And if you buy it soon enough, you can buy my near perfect Rinehart True Dual Exhaust.
(Although I'm working with a current offer!)
I might be shopping for a new '09, but the '01 stays.
Have it check carefully by a good indy, and if it checks out okay, EFI included, buy it!!
And if you buy it soon enough, you can buy my near perfect Rinehart True Dual Exhaust.
(Although I'm working with a current offer!)
Last edited by Yachtman; Jan 16, 2009 at 09:48 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,368
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From: Yokohama
I'm no expert but when I was researching used FLHRs I found that in 2002 the swingarm was upgraded, which made the bike handle better, and the Magnetti Marelli fuel injection was dropped for the better performing Delphi.
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2008
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I'm not much of a mechanic. What kind of coin are we talking about to replace tensioners if needed?
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Extreme HDF Member
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Just replacing tensioners takes the exact same amount of work as doing a cam swap. Most dealers charge about 4 hours labor for a cam swap. Parts for just a tensioner replacement will be less than 200 bucks. Personally, I'd spend the extra coin and replace the cams.
The bike only had 15k miles on it, though. It just needs the tensioners checked. They likely are fine.
The bike only had 15k miles on it, though. It just needs the tensioners checked. They likely are fine.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 192
Likes: 1
Just replacing tensioners takes the exact same amount of work as doing a cam swap. Most dealers charge about 4 hours labor for a cam swap. Parts for just a tensioner replacement will be less than 200 bucks. Personally, I'd spend the extra coin and replace the cams.
The bike only had 15k miles on it, though. It just needs the tensioners checked. They likely are fine.
The bike only had 15k miles on it, though. It just needs the tensioners checked. They likely are fine.