You can do the download but you will still being running lean like you are now so it will not run cooler or better throttle responce like with a PC.

I am sure there is a way to do this. Lots of people have them and I am sure some have ABS, the PCV is smaller so it maybe a non-issue.

I was hoping that Jamie from FM would chim in. If I do not see anything soon I will send Jamie an email.

 

most of the time jamie is wright on,but ihave heard some people complain about a higher then usual idle speed,if this were to happen then you would need to reset the throttle position very easy procedure dont be afraid of it.but chances are it will be 100% plug and play when it comes to you.

 

For clarity's sake (for those new to these things), not a flame: The PC III (or whichever model) comes mapped by Jamie. The zero throttle routine is something wholey separate that the owner has to do for each individual bike, because of course there's no way Jamie would know your bike's actual throttle position. Mine was a tad sluggish (albeit much better than stock) before the zeroing in, but much better after.

True, most may plug them in and run not knowing the difference, but the zero in process may help your bike respond better off the line, and no accel burps or decel pops.

 

so do you think it was worth upgrading from the pciii? do you still have that doo-dad that allows you to switch maps on the fly? or is that not necessary with the auto tune stuff?

and the most important question, where do you get all the money to spend on your bike?

 

for clairities sake due to the flame,wrong throttle position is uaually not the cause for decel pop,usually decel pop is caused because the map you are running is to rich for your set up and the map itself needs to be tweeked,throotle position needs to be set anywhere +5 to-5 from zero any where with in this perameter is considered at 0 has far as the dyno jet co is concerned,most bikes from the factory will fall into this range after the pc is installed and will run and idle properly,jamie has tuned enough bikes to usually get his customers very close to 0 which when connected to computer they usaually show, anywhere from +2 to+4,which is well with in the parametiers that dyno jets say is good,i have tweeked my maps by myself to increase and to decrease air fuel ratio at certain rpms to make the bike run ay its optimum performance, for example if we get into high humidity i will lean the bike down just a tad to make up for denser wetter air, the pc is a good tool if you know how to optamise it.

 

I do recommend checking the closed throttle position as part of the install procedure. This is a very quick and easy task. On the 02-07 Delphi EFI bikes use the following procedure: 1) connect USB cable firmly into PC unit. 2) turn on ignition switch and plug in 9V battery adapter into the port on PC unit *OR* simply start the bike. 3) open PC software and under "Power Commander Tools" menu click on "set throttle position" 4) to set the closed throttle simply press the < arrow next to "closed", hit OK and you are done. The 08-09 bike is a bit different and note on these bikes the TPS is part of the DBW throttle body assembly and the throttle position settings are far more consistent than the earlier models and usually do not need to be actually changed from the base settings in the PC unit. Also on the 08-09 bike it is important that the bike is up to operation temp as the throttle body steps the throttle blade open several degrees during warmup (this is also why they idle insanely high when they are cold) On the 08-09 bike use the following procedure to set the closed throttle: 1) warm up engine to operating temp. 2) connect USB cable firmly into PC unit. 3) start the bike. 4) open PC software and under "Power Commander Tools" menu click on "set throttle position" 5) to set the closed throttle simply press the < arrow next to "closed", hit OK and you are done. Also note on the 08-09 bike you cannot set the open throttle setting unless the engine is under full load such as on a dyno.

 

Do you put the Engine Kill Switch in Run or Stop position?

 

You will be surprised how easy it really is. A lap top will get you through it in a breeze.

 

thanks for your reply on this matter jamie its always a pleasure to here from you!!

 

The PC (at least for a touring frame) was designed to fit where the ABS unit is located and, unless they have come up with something new, the unit will sit directly under the seat and you will have to figure out a way to keep it from moving around.

About seven months (and 22,000 miles) after I installed mine, and right after I had washed it, I was going down the road and it started to not make enough power. It was almost like one cylinder stopped firing. It quit completely a couple of times but it would restart right away. Then it would not make power, quit, restart on its own and backfire so that the rider behind me noticed flame coming out of the exhaust.

This went on for 12 – 15 miles and I stopped to have a beer and think things over. I came out and started home. It did lack of power - stop running – start on its own – back fire with flames twice and then settled down.

Since then I have wrapped the PC with plastic wrap every time I washed the bike (if I take it to someone for service I tell them Do Not Wash) and no longer had the problem.

As I seem to have solved the problem I have not bothered anyone at Fuel Moto about it. I will be changing my exhaust system soon and will need a new map until I can get it to a Dyno I trust. Fuel Moto has great customer service and when I call to get them to email the new map I’ll ask them if anyone has come up with a better way to mount the unit on a bike with ABS.