Cam installation
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
From: Southern MD
Cam installation
I have questions about having cams installed.
Are they direct bolt in?
Do you need head work, new lifters, push rods, or ect?
What kind HP will you get out of it?
What companies make a better product?
Thanks in advance.
Are they direct bolt in?
Do you need head work, new lifters, push rods, or ect?
What kind HP will you get out of it?
What companies make a better product?
Thanks in advance.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,520
Likes: 3,953
From: Vermont
Are they direct bolt in? Depends on if you get what is called a bolt in cam or not. Bolt ins require no headwork.
Do you need head work, new lifters, push rods, or ect? Depends on above for headwork. Some bolt ins can use stock pushrods, others need to have adjustables. It also depends on if you want to pull the tank and rockers to use the stock rods or if you simply want to cut the stockers out and go with ez adjustables. As for lifters it depends on how many miles you have on the stock ones whether you should replace or not.
What kind HP will you get out of it? Depends on the cam (timing, duration, lift, etc.)
What companies make a better product? Woods, HQ, Andrews, zippers to name a few
Do you need head work, new lifters, push rods, or ect? Depends on above for headwork. Some bolt ins can use stock pushrods, others need to have adjustables. It also depends on if you want to pull the tank and rockers to use the stock rods or if you simply want to cut the stockers out and go with ez adjustables. As for lifters it depends on how many miles you have on the stock ones whether you should replace or not.
What kind HP will you get out of it? Depends on the cam (timing, duration, lift, etc.)
What companies make a better product? Woods, HQ, Andrews, zippers to name a few
Last edited by dawg; Jan 30, 2009 at 02:55 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,520
Likes: 3,953
From: Vermont
To expand on above, you should first consider what you are trying to accomplish and you future wants. All parts should compliment each other so if you are looking to do something different in the future you may want a cam that is adaptable to being a bolt in and a 103 cam, etc. You also need to think about your riding style and what you are looking for out of your bike
Banned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,551
Likes: 6
Yeah, direct bolt in.....Well, unless you got too tall, then it gets expensive and starts to impact on drivabilty.
Friend, the thing with cams is always the same be it Harley or small block Chevy. All Cams do is shift valve timing and determine power range on the rpm scale.......
Shifting valve timing is cool but only required if you need power in a diff RPM range.......Stock cams spread the power out-aftermarket cams tend to narrow it, so you gotta really know where in the RPM range you want power before you give it up elsewhere.
Your stock engine was designed to develop decent power all the way thru the rpm range, but you might require it more focused and higher elsewhere. Just remember that performance cams 'focus' power, so choose accordingly and expect flat spots-just plan for where you want them.
Usually, uninformed guys go too tall on the cam and too big on the induction cause they simply don't understand and think too much is better....Don't fall into that trap.
If you desire wide open hi rpm top speed power, then you need highl ift cams and springs that will operate at higher RPM without sprind binding or floating the valves.....Providing your engine can hold together at those higher RPM's they only require direct bolt in plus head/spring work.....You will suffer off line grunt, but blast *** on top end.
Friend, the thing with cams is always the same be it Harley or small block Chevy. All Cams do is shift valve timing and determine power range on the rpm scale.......
Shifting valve timing is cool but only required if you need power in a diff RPM range.......Stock cams spread the power out-aftermarket cams tend to narrow it, so you gotta really know where in the RPM range you want power before you give it up elsewhere.
Your stock engine was designed to develop decent power all the way thru the rpm range, but you might require it more focused and higher elsewhere. Just remember that performance cams 'focus' power, so choose accordingly and expect flat spots-just plan for where you want them.
Usually, uninformed guys go too tall on the cam and too big on the induction cause they simply don't understand and think too much is better....Don't fall into that trap.
If you desire wide open hi rpm top speed power, then you need highl ift cams and springs that will operate at higher RPM without sprind binding or floating the valves.....Providing your engine can hold together at those higher RPM's they only require direct bolt in plus head/spring work.....You will suffer off line grunt, but blast *** on top end.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 792
Likes: 0
From: Niagara Falls, NY
+1 on dawg's reponse. The only thing I can offer is I went with the HQ-575 cams before I went with 103 kit with heads. The cams did ok, after lots of self tuning. After the HQ 103 kit, it really woke up those cams. I highly recomend adj push fo rthe fact oe lifters may need the pluger to go down a little more than stock to get rid of the noise. On mine I needed to find the "sweet" spot on 1 lifter.
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