When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey, looking for opinions and experiences with upgrading cams with head work on an 88" as opposed to the Big Bore kit.
I have a 2006 FHXI that just turned 20k miles. The only engine mods I have done was the basic Stage 1 upgrade... V&H Slip-ons, S.E. Air Kit with smoth round cover, and a PCIII added. I believe right now I am around 75 hp/78 torque. I do not know for sure since the Dyno Tune report I received was misplaced long ago.
Any way, back to the point. I am not really looking for the move to a 95" as I am pretty happy with the 88 and do not want to intruduce any heat issues I hear about with the new 96. Not even sure if this is an issue.
My questions:
1. Anyone here upgrade cams and have some head work done on their 88?
2. What cams did you use and are you happy with the choice?
3. What kind of HP/Torque increase did you get out of this?
4. Did you go with new heads or keep the old and port/polish them with a valve job?
5. Did the cams do anything to improve the sound of the 88" given the high idle required with fuel injection? Not important really on this one, just curious.
I have an 06 Road king 88 motor.Opened up the cam chest recently to inspect cam chain tensioner s.Ended up putting 203 cams back in and am very happy.has a lot more ***** between 2-3000 rpm.At idle it has that slow loeing sound if you know what I mean.Hope this helps
I recently had Andrews 21G cams with a Baisley Spring installed in my 2001 Road King Classic with a Screaming Eagle Air Cleaner, 6 Speed Transmission, Mufflers, and a SERT. The Dynojet measure shows Max. Power = 73.46 and Max Torque = 92.26 and the seat of the pants scale confirms an amazing difference from stock. While the torque is very noticable from idle through all the gears, the roll on power in 5th gear is the best part. Some say that this cam quits pulling too early in the mid range. I don't agree as I can easily hit 100 mph with 3.37 gearing and accelerate well in 6th gear.
The cams did increase the exhaust level slightly. My idle is set on the high end (1,100 rpm)
I was planning on doing a low compression (Joe Minton) 95" build and mild head work next winter but right now am thinking that things are great just as they are with the 21G and 88". The final determinant of wether to also do the 95" top end will come after a summer of two-up touring.
I just did the cams and switched to Woods TW6's. I hae not had mine dyno'd but it for sure has more TQ. I pull away from other stock 88's now. A few of my frieds have done the 95 big bores with heads and cams and they are still quite a bit faster as you would expect. It sounds a lot different with the new cam, at idle it sounds like a harley should. I get lots of postive comments on how it sounds. You can hear it at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZAWB...e=channel_page
I am thinking of porting the heads and bumping up the compression slightly but I'm undecided. I might just Dyno it an be done.
Installed Head-Quarters HQ-0034 cams 2+ years/20K ago and have not thought about a 95" performance build since. The bike runs stronger than SE BB 95's using the 203 cams, and as strong as a buddy's '02 RK with BigBoyz heads and same Rinehart TD's and SE a/c on my bike.
Personally, unless you are getting the labor for free, I'd forget about any headwork until you can get fully ported heads matched to a complete build (cams, pistons, CR, quality tune, etc.)
Good luck with your research. Oh, as for dyno #'s, they are pretty meaningless IMO since dynos vary, quality of tune varies, honesty of dyno tuners varies, peak numbers don't reflect power across the rpm range, and chasing 5+/- hp and tq wouldn't make a difference in my riding style. I've had my bike on a dyno a few times, mainly to confirm AFR, and dynos at 80 hp/90 tq. Pre-cam swap, the bike dynoed at 75/78.
I just went the same route, more or less on my 99 @ 42K.
Had the Jugs bored out from 3.75" to 3.875" (88CI to 95CI)
Had the Heads ported and polished with Valves recut
Installed 10.25:1 Cast pistons
Installed Andrews Gear Cam Drive
Installed Andrews 54 Cams
Installed Jim's Hydrosolid Lifters
Installed Screamin' Eagle adjustable pushrods
Installed Power Commander III
I have not had a chance to get it dyno'd yet, but the seat o the pants dyno feels different.
I was plenty happy getting the stock heads ported and polished. The shop that did them was great about service, and discussed the build with me. I was looking for low end torque more than gross horsepower, and this seems to have filled the bill.
Hillside swears they can get 98hp out of a 88" 06 Dyna without changing the cam. I saw his post on another v-twin forum disscussing stock cams. So I guess the theory of no headwork is not holding up as well as I thought it would if you put faith in their claims.
So both installed new cams, but no head work? I was thinking new springs at the least, still debating on a valve job and porting at this time. Hell, no porting means a boat load of cash saved.
The hard part is going to be deciding between the Andrews and HQ cams...... heard good thing about both
Last edited by simpkinst; Feb 11, 2009 at 09:35 PM.
So both installed new cams, but no head work? I was thinking new springs at the least, still debating on a valve job and porting at this time. Hell, no porting means a boat load of cash saved.
The hard part is going to be deciding between the Andrews and HQ cams...... heard good thing about both
No headwork. You can re-use the stock pushrods and covers, but there is additonal labor if you do instead of cutting out the stock pr's. With only 20K miles on your engine, I'd do a cam only swap. Better, go to gear drive or use the new HD '07 style cam tensioner/billet cam plate/high volume oil pump piece. You'll be good to go with that when/if you decide on a good 95" performance build. And you can always sell the HQ-0034's if different cams would improve the new build's performance.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.