I really labored over which cam set to install and waited over two years before deciding. I wanted a cam that would not hurt the extreme low-end at all yet provide an overall increase in low-end and midrange. IOW, move the TQ chart up without shifting it to the right. Almost no cams will do this, as there is always a trade-off of low-end vs. peak HP. I wanted the power where I ride, not where it will achieve the greatest bragging rights at 6200 RPM's. When I pass a truck I want the power now, not after downshifting twice.

I wanted a cam upgrade without doing any engine work, and that is a very big problem. Most cam upgrades are accompanied by a CR increase (i.e. higher-compression pistons or thinner head gaskets). Higher CR boosts the low-end and compensates for the tendency for most cams to decrease low-end TQ in favor of peak HP.

I was interested in the Andrews TW-21, which looked good on paper, but the Andrews rep told me he didn't think Andrews had a cam that would do what I wanted. Fair enough, on to phase 2. I called Bob Wood and he talked-up the TW-6-6 with 4° advance gear, but I couldn't find a dyno chart that resulted in a TQ curve that I liked. I also didn't like the $525 pricetag for the combo. I was intrigued by the SE255's specs which looked rather mediocre on paper but had one characteristic that caught my eye, which was the intake valve close spec. At 25° this is the earliest close I've seen on any cam, and this is a real torque-maker. This combined with a very high lift (.550") and a modest increase in duration told me it would be a real torquemeister as well as give a modest increase in HP.

Finally, after talking with people with SE255's and finding a used one from a forum member for $110 I decided to give it a try. The specs looked right for me and the net result was exactly what I wanted. If you want big peak-HP numbers it won't give it to you, as it runs out of breath at about 5K RPM, but it is strong up to that point with a very flat TQ curve with no loss anywhere in the low-end that I can discern with my butt dyno.

The bottom line is that I won't be making any more performance changes to this bike. It's now where I want it.

 

Adjustable pushrods are typically fatter than stockers and can often hit things like the pushrod tubes. Sometimes this causes noises as they make contact, so you might check that. Otherwise, assuming they're adjusted properly, they shouldn't make any more noise than stock pushrods.

It must be the adjustment since those disks should not be worn out this early on. Try using a less-high-tech oil in the primary, as obviously the slicker the oil the less friction you have on the disks. I use Castrol GTX 20w50 but any fossil oil or ATF will work well.

Make sure the target AFR's for 1250 RPM's @ 2-5% are at zero. If not, change them to zero and then clear the trims. Clearing the trims is mandatory, as otherwise the existing trims will not be deleted and will be used, negating the changes you made. I had an off-idle stumbling problem that showed up on my recent trip to the Smokies and making this change fixed it. I called Jamie when I returned and he acknowledged that he is now making this change since others have also had this issue. He changes 2-5% while I zeroed 2-10%.

 

iclick I read some of your earlier versions of cams and took your suggestion. I also had the SE255 cams installed and yes I had them change the cam bearings while they were in there. On one of your post you said something about the ECM map, the stealer suggested the the Stage II map and I beleave that it is working real well. Yes they charged me a tad over 900 but I am very pleased with the cams also. I have observed that I can run in sixth gear in the upper 50's mph which is OK and seems to run well. The biggest thing is the cam gave the 96 ci motor that Harley lope needless to say I am pleased...................

 

Please explain more cause I dont understand the PCV thing yet. I dont have auto tune if that makes a difference. When I open my map, on the left side is front and rear cylinder tables and then a header for auto tune and under there is target afr's and trim. My target afr's at 1250 are 0%=0, 2%=13.8, 5%=13.8. all trim cells read 0. All the afr's seem rich as the leanest is 13.8 to 12.9 at the higher rpms

I adjusted my clutch this evening and no change, it still slips if I nail it at 60 and by 70 the rpms are way up (no tach just an audible rise in rpms) If I keep it off full throttle, she pulls real nice to 90. Next I'll try switching back to conventional oil.

I am going to leave the pushrods alone for now. The bike runs so strong, I find it hard to believe I have something out of adjustment. I'll learn to accept the noise. I think I am just paranoid more than anything.

 

iclick, nice write up. I had the dealer install the 103 kit with the 255 cams and the seat o meter is very happy. Much more aggressive throttle response.

 

iclick, thanks for your contribution.

Sounds like the 255 cam is what I'm looking for. Don't want to lose any low end torque.

Hardy ever ride over 4,500 RPMs.

08 Roadglide.
Sert
AC
Fat Cat 2-1

 

The SE big bore kit includes a heavy clutch spring for the added power. Might also be a consideration when installing a cam. I put it in mine and haven't experienced any clutch slippage since my build.

 

The Stage II download will set the ECM where it needs to be to meet EPA specs, but if you want a real performance bump go buy a PCV from Fuel Moto. Better yet, buy the Power Package (PCV, AC, and Jackpot mufflers). Do a search here for "Fuel Moto" and read up on their products and services.

The pricetag of $900 sounds about right if you bought the cams and other parts from the dealer.

I've also noticed the engine's ability to efficiently run as low as 55mph in 6th without feeling like it is laboring. The cam helped my bike in every category except gas mileage, and MPG is no worse than it was before the swap. It made the TC96 a much more efficient powerplant in a heavy touring bike, IMO.

As for sound it is now louder with a more aggressive tone to it.

 

My suggestion was predicated on having AT installed. If you're having a hesitation issue off-idle I would call Jamie and ask his advise, as your base map should be set correctly. The Target AFR and trim tables are only applicable with AT, so the only tables working with the PCV alone are the two base-map and two ignition tables. I wouldn't mess with any of the tables 'til you talk with Jamie.

If you ever upgrade to AT change the values for 1250 RPM @ 2-10% to "0" before running the bike. In fact, you should just go ahead and change them now if the software will allow it. It may not with no AT modules installed, though.

If the oil change doesn't help I think new disks will be required, but that really shouldn't be necessary this early in the game and under normal circumstances. I would definitely use a more low-tech oil in the primary from here on out, though.

I wish I could hear it. Find a tech that you can trust and let him listen to it, as a second-opinion would be good. I have a feeling what you're hearing is normal, though. Remember that the 255's have a .55" lift, which is enough to make a difference in noise. I was surprised how little difference there was on my bike, however.

 

This cam set may be unbeatable from 2000-4500 RPM's in a stock TC96. Look on Ebay, as the SE255's come in all CVO bikes and some of those guys want peakier cams. A used cam should be as good as new as long as the engine hasn't cratered where there's damage from contamination, and I've seen them at auction for $125-150. I got mine from a forum member for $110, and that's the best money I've spent on the bike in some time. This guy ran the 255's for 3500 miles, then installed Wood 6-6 with a 4° advance gear, telling me he thought there was a TQ and HP increase with the new setup but not where he rides. IOW, the curve was moved up and to the right giving him more power up at a higher RPM, but in his opinion power is less where he rides most (below 4k RPM). Matching cams to an engine and owner expectations can be a very tricky proposition.

I've also seen new cams auctioned from guys who buy the Stage II kit, which includes the 255's, and want something else (or think they do).

BTW, with SERT you'll need to do a dyno tune after a cam upgrade--but I'm sure you know that already. The 2-into-1's you already have should match up well, too.