Oil Cooler?

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Mar 16, 2009 | 12:59 PM

#21

iclick

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Joined: Sep 2005

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From: Baton Rouge, LA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chief1297

Almost like a chicken and egg question. Oil coolers work great when your moving but if your moving do you need an oil cooler? They will make the oil cooler as your moving though.

09StreetGlider said it well. Coolers obviously work better as air flows over the cooling fins, especially at speeds of 45mph or above, but do work to some degree without airflow through convection. Regardless, an air-cooled engine equipped with an oil cooler will not maintain safe head or oil temperatures with no air flowing over the cylinders or cooler fins.

My oil temps in summer (above 90°) run about 205-210° while moving, and I've seen 230° three times in two summers, all while in heavy summer traffic. It has never exceeded that temperature. I consider these oil temps safe and am satisfied with the status quo. In other seasons oil temps stay even lower. For example yesterday air temps were about 70° and during an 80-mile ride my oil temps stayed at 185°, up to about 200° once or twice when I slowed for traffic, but decreased again when I got rolling. It's interesting that when oil temps climb in traffic, they never go down quite to the level they were before. E.g., if I'm running 185° and it climbs to 200° in traffic, once rolling again it will go back down but maybe to only 190 or 195°. Not sure why that is.

Keep in mind I'm running lean AFR's in the cruise range, currently 14.6:1, so I'm not getting full cooling from my EFI tuning. As long as I can keep it where it is I'll be happy, but after installing a pair of cams last week I'll be watching to see if anything changes.

Last edited by iclick; Mar 16, 2009 at 01:11 PM.

Mar 16, 2009 | 01:09 PM

#22

robzuc97

Road Master

Joined: Nov 2007

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From: Peoria, AZ

Newer bikes run at 265 op temp and up. Oil begins to properly flow at 180. Coolers work great but should be disabled in winter in it gets too cold to obtain that 180 oil temp.

Mar 16, 2009 | 01:11 PM

#23

09StreetGlider

Road Master

Joined: Dec 2008

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From: Bagram, Afghanistan

Quote:

Originally Posted by robzuc97

Newer bikes run at 265 op temp and up. Oil begins to properly flow at 180. Coolers work great but should be disabled in winter in it gets too cold to obtain that 180 oil temp.

That's why the Harley one has a thermostat. Works very well too. Activates at 185 degrees just as advertized.

Mar 16, 2009 | 03:11 PM

#24

streeter

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Joined: Mar 2007

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From:

Quote:

Originally Posted by robzuc97

Newer bikes run at 265 op temp and up. Oil begins to properly flow at 180. Coolers work great but should be disabled in winter in it gets too cold to obtain that 180 oil temp.

Grab your favorite oil and pour into a tin can. Heat it up on a hot plate or use a torch to a temp. of 130-150 degrees. Monitor the temperature using an imersion probe or infra red gun.
Now pour some of that hot oil a note the viscosity change........you'll be suprised and will soon realize that your oil will flow well at temps below 180.

Note: to ensure your personal safety during the above procedure wear approved saftey eyewear and personal protection.

Thanks

Mar 16, 2009 | 05:19 PM

#25

iclick

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Joined: Sep 2005

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From: Baton Rouge, LA

Quote:

Originally Posted by streeter

What you're saying is true. Modern oils are multi-viscosity, which means a 20w50 flows like a 20w oil at 0°C and gives the protection of a 50w oil at 100°C. Essentially oil is thicker when cold, but to say it doesn't flow well isn't quite true.

Mar 16, 2009 | 06:40 PM

#26

streeter

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Joined: Mar 2007

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From:

Quote:

Originally Posted by iclick

Iclick, your right with the viscosity definiton. Oil in our application does not get all that thick when cold. 50 degree outside temp with 20-50 synthetic oil has plenty fluidity for start up and provide proper lubrication. Now.........-40 that's thick oil.

Mar 16, 2009 | 07:24 PM

#27

Lonewolf176

Stellar HDF Member

Joined: Sep 2007

Posts: 2,459

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From: Vancouver Island B.C.

Quote:

Originally Posted by iclick

That's a bit on the hot side for the front cylinder, as late-model bikes go into heat-management mode by that time, and ignition advance starts retarding above 260°.

Not to side track this thread but to quote Doug from HQ's "The 300 degree cruising head temps is a combination of *right* ignition timing and air/fuel."