Primary chain related question
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Primary chain related question
Yesterday i opened up the primary inspection cover of my Road King Classic to look for source of loud noise.(Read about the loose compensator nut)
When i tried pulling the chain forward and backward, the chain seems to be able to slide back and forth by about an inch.
I wonder if this is a sign of loose compensator nut, anyone can help confirm this?
The noise is really driving me nut..It sounds like chain slapping the case when the throttle is closed, especially at low rpm...something like 'klonk klonk klonk klonk...."
When i tried pulling the chain forward and backward, the chain seems to be able to slide back and forth by about an inch.
I wonder if this is a sign of loose compensator nut, anyone can help confirm this?
The noise is really driving me nut..It sounds like chain slapping the case when the throttle is closed, especially at low rpm...something like 'klonk klonk klonk klonk...."
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From: People's Republic of Boulder Colorado
Yesterday i opened up the primary inspection cover of my Road King Classic to look for source of loud noise.(Read about the loose compensator nut)
When i tried pulling the chain forward and backward, the chain seems to be able to slide back and forth by about an inch.
I wonder if this is a sign of loose compensator nut, anyone can help confirm this?
The noise is really driving me nut..It sounds like chain slapping the case when the throttle is closed, especially at low rpm...something like 'klonk klonk klonk klonk...."
When i tried pulling the chain forward and backward, the chain seems to be able to slide back and forth by about an inch.
I wonder if this is a sign of loose compensator nut, anyone can help confirm this?
The noise is really driving me nut..It sounds like chain slapping the case when the throttle is closed, especially at low rpm...something like 'klonk klonk klonk klonk...."
Last edited by jpooch00; Mar 17, 2009 at 05:23 AM.
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From: OHIO......UGH !!
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I want to get confirmation about the sliding chain as a symtom of bad compensator, so that i can plan the next step(going into the primary)
Can i reuse the primary gasket after opening up the cover? or i need to replace a new one each time the cover is opened.(service manual says so)
When you say the nut getting loose, is it gonna be really 'loose' as in it can be turned by fingers? (i do not have a torque wrench)
Thanks alot!!!
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From: SoCal
You should absolutely NOT be able to move your primary chain like that...like mentioned above, it sounds like your compensator is really lose...enough that the lobes inside it have zero tension.
No matter what....compensator or something else, the primary definitely needs to come off and you need to get a good look at the hardware. When you drain the primary oil, have a good look at the drain plug, it should have a magnet on the bottom...check it for metal shavings. Mind you, some fine shavings are normal, but anything more than fine is a sign of a comp problem.
When my comp came lose, it created a lot of vibration...enough that the rotor splines began to shard where they meet the crankshaft...and left some ugly shavings in the primary oil.
You will need to borrow or rent both an Inch LBS and Foot LBS torque wrench to do the job correctly if the comp is in fact lose. Also make sure you have a quality set of torx sockets. You’ll also need RED loctite and I recommend spending a little extra and getting the primer as well. You don’t want the comp loosening up again, and the best way is to prime and red loctite the nut, and torque it properly (see manual for your bike). You will also need a primary locking tool, you can find them on eBay for pretty cheap...that is needed to lock the compensator and clutch basket in place to break the torque on the nuts. When you get it all disassembled, take a good hard look at all of the compensator pieces...particularly the spring pack, and pull the rotor off of the stator and check the spline grooves and magnets for damage. I had to replace my rotor, but my comp was ok along with the stator.
While the primary is off, it is also a good time to check and replace anything worn in there (i.e. primary tensioner, clutch plates, primary chain, ect.) Most if not all of the should still be fine if the bike has fairly low miles and no major metal shavings were produced from the comp.
Keep us posted on what you come up with…there is a lot of know how here and members are more than willing help out.
No matter what....compensator or something else, the primary definitely needs to come off and you need to get a good look at the hardware. When you drain the primary oil, have a good look at the drain plug, it should have a magnet on the bottom...check it for metal shavings. Mind you, some fine shavings are normal, but anything more than fine is a sign of a comp problem.
When my comp came lose, it created a lot of vibration...enough that the rotor splines began to shard where they meet the crankshaft...and left some ugly shavings in the primary oil.
You will need to borrow or rent both an Inch LBS and Foot LBS torque wrench to do the job correctly if the comp is in fact lose. Also make sure you have a quality set of torx sockets. You’ll also need RED loctite and I recommend spending a little extra and getting the primer as well. You don’t want the comp loosening up again, and the best way is to prime and red loctite the nut, and torque it properly (see manual for your bike). You will also need a primary locking tool, you can find them on eBay for pretty cheap...that is needed to lock the compensator and clutch basket in place to break the torque on the nuts. When you get it all disassembled, take a good hard look at all of the compensator pieces...particularly the spring pack, and pull the rotor off of the stator and check the spline grooves and magnets for damage. I had to replace my rotor, but my comp was ok along with the stator.
While the primary is off, it is also a good time to check and replace anything worn in there (i.e. primary tensioner, clutch plates, primary chain, ect.) Most if not all of the should still be fine if the bike has fairly low miles and no major metal shavings were produced from the comp.
Keep us posted on what you come up with…there is a lot of know how here and members are more than willing help out.
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[QUOTE=JayDee5150;4722010][COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]You should absolutely NOT be able to move your primary chain like that...like mentioned above, it sounds like your compensator is really lose...enough that the lobes inside it have zero tension. QUOTE]
Thanks JayDee5150..
Can i reuse back the primary gasket? Mine is an 05 Road King Classic with 26KMiles on...
Thanks JayDee5150..
Can i reuse back the primary gasket? Mine is an 05 Road King Classic with 26KMiles on...
Road Master
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From: SoCal
There are different opinions on the reusing gaskets...personally, for piece of mind I always replace large gaskets like that.
Reusing the derby gasket, inspection cover gasket, stuff like that I'll do, but for something like the primary, because it's more work to replace that gasket if it does leak...i'd just assume spend the extra $$$ and replace the gasket to avoid that problem.
Reusing the derby gasket, inspection cover gasket, stuff like that I'll do, but for something like the primary, because it's more work to replace that gasket if it does leak...i'd just assume spend the extra $$$ and replace the gasket to avoid that problem.
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It may not be that bad, his primary chain just might need adjusted. When the bike is cold, there should be 5/8 of 7/8 inches of play in it. It's easy to adjust, right through the inspection cover.
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Chain should only have up/down movement - any back/forth movemnt is BAD. Pull primary and fix. I've had my primary off and reused the gasket - but, it came off without breaking apart. If it were mine, would pull apart and see how the gasket looks. That gasket if not cheap - as I recall, it's like 20 some odd dollars.