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I just saw this post and am furious. The dealer or someone was passing the buck. Barnett plates are TOTALLY made in-house. Always have been, always will be. The factory is open to anyone who wants to see the operation. Unlike other companies who source out the works, Barnett makes the Product from the initial stamping to the end packaging. You guys have a question you want a REAL answer to? Pick up the phone and call Barnett. You will get a person who will give you the straight. There are many variables with clutches. Sometimes the dealers are covering their own butts. Barnett will never bring plates in from China, Mexico or from another company, which many do.
Help please. Just bought a 1996 FLHT with a Ultima 107 and a Barnett Scorpion clutch. The dealer I bought the bike from is out of state and said the bike shifts hard and walks a bit because of the new scorpion clutch assembly. That it has two shams and one needs to be removed after the clutch plates break in. The bike is real hard to shift and can't put it in natural with the bike running. The clutch lever is tight. I removed the derby cover today, loosened the lock nut and turned the set screw 1/4 turn clockwise. The clutch started slipping so I put it back where it was. Any ideals? Is there any truth to remove the sham the dealer told me or do I have the wrong strength clutch springs?
just installed mine last week iam using dino oil and i got no problems with it .in fact you can feel the differance between the stock clutches and barnett if installed correctly u shouldnt have any issues if your using any of there clutches u have to remove the concave ring in the back of the clutch basket. then install you clutch pack barnett designed these cluthes to be wet or dry i kept mine wet. when i first rode the after the install it ran great but in 4th gear on up it slipped a little i rode it around for an hour went home let it cool down readjusted the primary and the cable and all is well clutch grabs right now. on your first install u take the cable and turn it in to give it slack then go to the primary unloosen your jamb nut back out the center screw and then turn it in until u feel resistance when u feel the resistance turn it back a 1/2 turn holding the center screw and and then adjust your cable i use a dime between the clutch perch and the shoulder on the cable for referance and it works great for me just my 2 cents. forgot to mention soak your friction discs in the oil your gonna use for at least 20 minutes.
Last edited by roadgliderick; Sep 20, 2012 at 02:54 PM.
Hi, I just joined the forum to say thanks! Had problems with my new Barnett Scorpion too. It was binding and slipping at the same time, not good. I removed the concave ring as was suggested, and all is perfect. I'm just running in the engine 150 miles so far, so am off out whilst the weather is still holding.
Many thanks.
Yes I have a 08 RKC. S&S motor with barnett scorpion lock clutch. The clutch seems to be working ok no slippage. However when my RPM's are high there is no way to pull the clutch lever in at all. It seems to be locking and won't allow me to pull the clutch lever in order to shift. Is this normal ?. I am unable to race because I can't shift up to any gear. Is there a fix for this or is this normal operation for scorpion lock clutch. A shop installed it.
PS The clutch lever works fine otherwise. It only happens at about 5000 rpm. No problem with being able to pull lever at riding RPM"s
Last edited by Arizona65; Aug 3, 2020 at 04:09 PM.
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