Wobble Fixed for $3 ???
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,955
Likes: 7
From: The Great Northwest
Great post! Here's the basic language in the 08 manual.
Check procedure is to get the bike up on a jack so the front and rear tires are equal distance off of level ground. Then turn the wheel until contact is made with the left fork stop and let go. The wheel should from side to side either 3 or 4 times before coming to a stop.
A steering head that is too tight can interfere with the bike ability to absorb a weave. Too loose can interfere with he ability to absorb a wobble.
As mentioned, it's important to make sure that the clutch cable or the main harness aren't infuencing the swing momentum.
Check procedure is to get the bike up on a jack so the front and rear tires are equal distance off of level ground. Then turn the wheel until contact is made with the left fork stop and let go. The wheel should from side to side either 3 or 4 times before coming to a stop.
A steering head that is too tight can interfere with the bike ability to absorb a weave. Too loose can interfere with he ability to absorb a wobble.
As mentioned, it's important to make sure that the clutch cable or the main harness aren't infuencing the swing momentum.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Morgan Hill, Ca
[quote=OD_Cleaver;4988990]Somewhere around 8 to 10K miles my 08 Electra Glide developed what felt like a frame flex. I would notice it whenever the bike was leaned over and I hit a bump.
Last summer at around 10K to 12K miles on a 70mph curve I hit one nasty bump hidden in the shadows. The bike went into a wobble, but pulled itself out after a couple of oscillations.
I am sorry but the first two sentances of you post tells it all. I had a 08 105th uc and lost it due to bagger wobble. Also I am presently recovering from a broken femur and broken hip because of it. I am speaking from the position of what can happen to anyone who dosen't think this is a problem. Frame flexing starts because of shifting of the motor, not the neckberings or air in the shocks. Think about it, air in shocks = up and down. Wobble = side to side. Neck bering resistance, unless they are so loose they are flopping around wont start a side to side movement.
Also would you really expect anyone who sells or services their product to say you need to buy an aftermarket product to make it safe. There might be some but not many.
You have experianced this firsthand and got luckey that it didn't get out of hand. I wasn't so luckey. Please don't expect a 3 dollar screwdriver made to adjust your neck berrings a cure. Listen to what is being said with an open mind, then decide. I am not trying to come down on you or your idea, but as a friend trying to save you some pain. We all hate to see a biker get hurt....
Last summer at around 10K to 12K miles on a 70mph curve I hit one nasty bump hidden in the shadows. The bike went into a wobble, but pulled itself out after a couple of oscillations.
I am sorry but the first two sentances of you post tells it all. I had a 08 105th uc and lost it due to bagger wobble. Also I am presently recovering from a broken femur and broken hip because of it. I am speaking from the position of what can happen to anyone who dosen't think this is a problem. Frame flexing starts because of shifting of the motor, not the neckberings or air in the shocks. Think about it, air in shocks = up and down. Wobble = side to side. Neck bering resistance, unless they are so loose they are flopping around wont start a side to side movement.
Also would you really expect anyone who sells or services their product to say you need to buy an aftermarket product to make it safe. There might be some but not many.
You have experianced this firsthand and got luckey that it didn't get out of hand. I wasn't so luckey. Please don't expect a 3 dollar screwdriver made to adjust your neck berrings a cure. Listen to what is being said with an open mind, then decide. I am not trying to come down on you or your idea, but as a friend trying to save you some pain. We all hate to see a biker get hurt....
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,189
Likes: 9
From: la grange, il (near chicago)
i am not sure if this will be relevant but i will state it anyway.
had a honda 750 back in the day.
the steering head bearing and race had gotten worn. with the riding and the front end hitting bumps, etc. the ***** in the ball bearing would press into the race and make an indentation. eventually this would affect the story and eventually it would need replacing. until it definitely neede replacing it would need adjusting (like mentioned above) to assure the right tightness.
but i still think that only two control points from the engine to the fram is not enough to hold the drivetrain steady and stable. especially after some number of miles and wear.
if i am not mistaken, buell had mentioned this to harley back awhile. i will stand corrected, but i believe that all buells have 3 connnecting points.
had a honda 750 back in the day.
the steering head bearing and race had gotten worn. with the riding and the front end hitting bumps, etc. the ***** in the ball bearing would press into the race and make an indentation. eventually this would affect the story and eventually it would need replacing. until it definitely neede replacing it would need adjusting (like mentioned above) to assure the right tightness.
but i still think that only two control points from the engine to the fram is not enough to hold the drivetrain steady and stable. especially after some number of miles and wear.
if i am not mistaken, buell had mentioned this to harley back awhile. i will stand corrected, but i believe that all buells have 3 connnecting points.
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
From: Dallas / Ft. Worth, Texas
And did you guys notice, in good MSF style they're both covering the brake pedal. Looks like you guys have that new ABS brake system -- Activated by Bare Souls.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,808
Likes: 0
From: Waynesville, NC
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