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Just lowered '01 E-GLide- bottoming out

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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 11:27 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by bigdumbnoitall00
the problem is when u lower with brackets the stock shocks are not stiff enough.when u get shorter shocks they are valved and sprung stiffer so u dont botttom as much.and u will rub the wires to your taillight when u bottom.
The stiffness of the shocks are adjusted by the amount of air pressure.....they certainly are stiff enough for lowering brackets!
 
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 03:19 PM
  #12  
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Thanks spence2222, I will definitely check the taillite bolt length. Any longer than needed is too long.
And juice the shocks up to the mid to upper 20's.
I am 210 and girlfriend is about 130. and I see people a LOT bigger than me running around on these bikes so bottoming out isn't/shouldnt be in the cards.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 03:59 PM
  #13  
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lowering blocks change positioning of your shocks and work great on a light bike, but for a heaving touring bike - not a good idea.

yes the blocks work, but hit a bump, or start adding weight....it bottoms out...over time will cause you problems if hits enough!.

call any after market shock mfg.....they will tell you - if you use lowering blocks...you will void your shock warrenty.

we spend $20,000 to have an ultra....spend the $500 or so, and lower your bike by changing the shocks, seat, or both.
 

Last edited by soon to be; Jun 24, 2009 at 04:11 PM.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 07:57 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by soon to be
lowering blocks change positioning of your shocks and work great on a light bike, but for a heaving touring bike - not a good idea.

yes the blocks work, but hit a bump, or start adding weight....it bottoms out...over time will cause you problems if hits enough!.

call any after market shock mfg.....they will tell you - if you use lowering blocks...you will void your shock warrenty.

we spend $20,000 to have an ultra....spend the $500 or so, and lower your bike by changing the shocks, seat, or both.
Yea right....and some will tell ya that changing your own oil will void the warranty too...don't believe everything the stealer tells ya...
 
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 01:06 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by spence222
Yea right....and some will tell ya that changing your own oil will void the warranty too...don't believe everything the stealer tells ya...
I do not always believe what my stealer says either....i also change my own oil.

but my post referred to aftermarket shock mfg'ers...i've attached a link below to progressives warranty. Read it for your self....lowering blocks void a warranty.

http://www.progressivesuspension.com/warranty05.html

if you want the right information....talk to someone who can get you the right info so that you can make the right decison!

if we can afford to ride an ultra and need it lowered....do it the right way...just saying!
 

Last edited by soon to be; Jun 25, 2009 at 05:18 PM.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 01:40 PM
  #16  
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Anybody remember that Canadian dude a couple years ago who ranted and raved about some touring lowering kit and a bunch of forum members damaged their bikes and got screwed on returns?

Anyway. I would say use Street Glide shocks or a quality equivalent from Progressive. You don't want to mess too much with the geometry of the touring platform.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 01:47 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by soon to be
lowering blocks change positioning of your shocks and work great on a light bike, but for a heaving touring bike - not a good idea.

yes the blocks work, but hit a bump, or start adding weight....it bottoms out...over time will cause you problems if hits enough!.

call any after market shock mfg.....they will tell you - if you use lowering blocks...you will void your shock warrenty.

we spend $20,000 to have an ultra....spend the $500 or so, and lower your bike by changing the shocks, seat, or both.
Well said, and pumping the air pressure might help on bottoming out, but the ride quality is going to suffer also. The sofa glide won't be a sofa no more.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 08:54 AM
  #18  
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If I wanted a "sofa glide"...I would have bought BMW or a Goldwing....just sayin
 
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 10:16 AM
  #19  
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You might want to check the links in my thread HERE on changing my shock oil. I've been very happy with the results and it may improve your bottoming issues some. For about $30 it may be worth the try.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 05:05 PM
  #20  
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Get rid of those piece of crap lowering blocks, they change the working angle of your shocks so are not as efficiant as they where originally, I tried those first on my bike because I has cheap, they bottomed out all the time even with the shocks fully aired up, I switched to Progressive short shocks and they work perfect.
 
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