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Well, I put 12" apes on the SG.. cut the connector out, TBW failed... it never left me stranded as it is a redundant system, just went into "limp mode" until I changed it out. Now, I know it was my fault for cutting the connector and changing the resistance.. put the CVO TBW in (no connector) and it works fine. I know it is not a big deal, but running wires internally look A LOT better to me. NO Throttle cables hanging etc..
And I love the cruise control with the TBW. I think it's a good system and will only improve.
Harley Davidson Cruise control is spot on and the best in the industry as far as I am concerned. If TBW is the reason, then so be it. As far as longevity of the unit, who knows how many times you can twist the grip before it quits. Mine has had absolutely no problems. Hi idle when cold, then normal when warm. Works fine for me.
Rut Ro.... Sounds like I have an issue with mine... Two pages and nobody mentioned it not returning all the way to idle all the time..... Mine will not always return to idle, it was delivered that way, stealer said that it was normal, depends on where the trottle was when it was shut off.... I am really starting to dislike this outfit.. Other than that, I like it.
Do a search here, the fix is easy and out there. It is also in your manual. Once reset, let the bike idle a second before shutting it off and you will be ok. If you rev it, then shut it off before idle, the sensor will note the throttle location and keep it when you start the bike. Common issue, easy cure.
No problems with mine, not enough difference from cable to make a difference for me. I do like not having the cables.
I'm 50/50 right now. It's just something else that can go wrong and it's not quite as responsive as a tbw but so far I haven't had any problems. I once had a throttle wire break at the handle and it was a pain to pull manually to hobble home. Not sure what I would do if it broke now since there isn't anything to grab. I would be curious as to the cost difference between a broken wire and whatever else can go wrong with the new setups. Probably a lot more expensive.
The wires in a TBW system can no more break than the wires in the headlight. When was the last time you had one of those break?
The TBW system is more reliable mechanically (and also redundant) than a mechanical throttle system. What I mean by redundant is that there are two complete TBW systems in each TBW mechanism.
There is a popular misconception that the TBW system uses some sort of rheostat system. For those that don't know, rheostats are what gets used for volume ***** and what-not in non-digital audio equipment. Everyone that has ever owned a stereo knows how prone these are to failure. The TBW system uses two (redundancy) magnetic sensors to determine the throttle position.
Well, I put 12" apes on the SG.. cut the connector out, TBW failed... it never left me stranded as it is a redundant system, just went into "limp mode" until I changed it out. Now, I know it was my fault for cutting the connector and changing the resistance.. put the CVO TBW in (no connector) and it works fine. I know it is not a big deal, but running wires internally look A LOT better to me. NO Throttle cables hanging etc..
And I love the cruise control with the TBW. I think it's a good system and will only improve.
Changing the resistance has nothing to do with it, especially the minimal resistance that a few more inches of wire would add. It's not a resistance based mechanism.
For the record, they *DO* make cable extenders so that you can run apes.
I've had a Fat Boy that the cable broke .. so far TBW has worked perfect for me so I like it better than cable.. don't really notice much difference ... I do like the no cable clean look
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