batteries last only so long. it might be time to be saying "so long" to your original battery.

 

I didn't have anyone that I could borrow a battery from, so I bought a new battery. The battery wasn't the problem.

I thought it was the voltage regulator, but didn't want to take any chances. Brought the bike to the dealer, explained what I had already tested on the bike, changed the battery, etc.

It was the voltage regulator that was bad. Back in business now!!

 

Congrats, my TDM900's stator and regulator died a couple weeks ago. Glad I didn't waste money on a new battery because the old one was still good.

 

My experience is that when your battery is questionable, replace it. Ive heard more than once of guys trying to get every last bit out of their batteries and it knocking out the whole charging system. By the way, I think Harley recommends replacing the whole charging system when part of it goes out.

 

Yep, I'm happy now with a new battery and new VR and a complete check of the charging system with the stator getting a clean bill of health - I'm ready to go.

 

I have a similar if not the same problem. I ordered a new voltage regulator. It will be in tomorrow. I called the dealership near me and questioned if it might be the stater , dreading the expense which I knew would be rediculous anyway but wanted to be preparing for that expense. The service guy told me that it infact is highly unlikely that it is the stater and that they are tough as nails. He went on to say that I should bring it in and get each component checked rather than spending a ton throwing parts at the issue. I thought well yah that makes sense. Then he told me $700 would be the minimum cost to replace stater. I dont think that if I threw every single part of the charging system new on the bike would add up to what a new stater installed would cost. Mine is a 2003 sportster 883 anniversary. 14500 miles on it. I have had it 3 weeks and is sole source of my transportation. I paid 2500 cash. Before I put another grand into a 2 grand hunk of steal that won't run I will part it out and buy a bike that is worth a ****. Now regulators/rectifiers I read are prone to burn up especially if loose bat. Cables have been an issue. Sure seems like there would be something in place to protect from an expensive repair like a stater is going to be. Like an inline fuse or what ever. I don't believe Harley Davidson would recommend the whole system at any dealership if it's only 1 componant that's faulty. I am pretty sure I can find a shop that isn't a dealership shop that will beat the wheels off of a 700$ stater repair. FFS the dam part is like 125$ loved Harleys all my life but nearly a 1k$ repair on a 2500$ bike is insane and a few other choice words I'd probably catch a forum ban for also. Hopefully it's just the regulator. My first bike on my 20's was a Yamaha with similar millage. I drove it everyday rain sleet or shine for 8 years paid 1k$ and I'm all those years didn't have to put more than 500$ in it which includes new clutch and valves adjust.......

 

12 year old post, hope got it fixed.

 

Check your ignition switch… the contacts can get corroded and cause exactly this.

 

Changed the voltage reg. And still have the same ptoblem !! Now what ???

 

Hi Byron, welcome to the Forum from Utah.

You replied to an old post, date and time are usually in the upper left of the post.

You should start a new thread in the Electrical/Lighting/Alarm section of the Forum.

State the Model and year of your bike, symptoms, troubleshooting you've done and what modifications you made to the bike.

Here is a troubleshooting guide to the charging system:Harley Davidson Charging System description and testing

Description:

The charging system consists of 3 major parts:




1- An Alternator that generates single phase or three phase alternating current, (AC).

The Alternator has 2 parts:

Rotor:

Attached to the primary side of the crankshaft. The Rotor has a series of permanent magnets and rotates around the Stator at engine speed.




Stator:

Attached to the crank case and has a series of wound wire coils. The Rotor fits over the stationary stator. As the Rotor spins around the Stator the rotating magnetic fields induce Alternating Current in the stationary coils. The Stator’s coils are arraigned so the AC output is either single or three phase.




2- Voltage Regulator, (VR), rectifies the Alternating Current, (AC), from the Stator to Direct Current,(DC), and limits the voltage output to a value close to 14.5 V DC.




3- Battery, a 12V rechargeable storage device used to supply power to the bikes electrical circuits.




As shown in the schematic the charging system includes insulated conductors and connectors carrying current from the stator to the VR through the main fuse to the starter and on to the battery positive. The VR negative lead and the battery negative lead are both connected to Chassis ground.

This system can be checked with a few easy tests using a digital or analog Volt–Ohm Meter.







Testing:



Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.

Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.

Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.







Battery testing:

First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.

If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.

Voltmeter test:

Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.

12.7 v = 100% charge

12.6 v = 75%

12.3 v = 50%

12.0 v = 25%

11.8 v = 0%

Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.

If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:

LHCM 0.5

RHCM 0.5

Speedometer/ IM 0.5

Regulator 1.0

ABS 1.0

BCM 1.0

ECM 1.0

Security Siren 20.0

Radio 0.5

Amplifier 0.5

CB Module 0.5




If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.

Charging System Testing:

Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.

With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15.5V test the Voltage Regulator.




Stator testing

Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.

Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).

The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.

Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.

Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.

If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.




One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.




Voltage Regulator Testing




Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher:

Test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator. If resistance is more than 0.5 ohm check ground connection for corrosion and wire for damage.

If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.