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Cam Upgrade on TC96

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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 10:03 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by HD Renegade
I Agree with the rpm numbers you say here, and I am no expert at all. I come here to read, ask, and listen to what others have done and found. My tuner has been building and working on Harley for 20 years. I can only give the numbers I have from the dyno. I will be posting a review of things soon once I get my ducks in a row. I have spent a lot of cash in the last 4 months on trying to gain more power. I have changed cams, air cleaners, and pipes. The duals vrs 2-into-1 is a BS myth as far as I am concerned.

The biggest power gain I have seen is from an air cleaner change, from HD stage 1 to a SPP w/crank vents. I think the gain was 12 hp with Dyno to prove it.

Please keep in mind, I am not trying to argue with anyone here, I am just sharing what I have done and what I have seen from it.
The point I was trying to make is that you'll need to decide where you want the power. If the OP goes with 50H's with no CR increase you will have more peak HP, torque will also increase but will shift to the right on the chart, and the low-end will suffer. If peak HP is your goal this might be a good option. If you want the power to come in at a lower RPM that requires less downshifting it won't be a good idea.

Along these lines, most touring bike riders don't routinely rev their bikes past a moderate RPM, like 4-4.5K, and want the power to come in early. This makes it easy to manage the power while touring--passing vehicles, climbing hills, and otherwise using the power in a practical way while minimizing the amount of downshifting.

The trade-off is that most cams will shift the power to the right on the way to achieving higher peak HP, and unless other changes are made (primarily an increase in CR) the engine will produce less power where many of us ride. Key indicators as to how well a cam will perform down low without CR changes include the intake-close spec. A cam set with a 25° close will produce more CCP down low than one with 38°, all other factors being equal, and duration also affects the low-end. The earlier the intake close the more CCP is generated, and this is important when using stock CR. Installing a 50H or similar design with no other mods will produce a result where power comes in high while the low-end and perhaps much of the midrange power will decrease.

Again, it's a trade-off, and you'll need to decide where you want the power to be realized.
 

Last edited by iclick; Jun 30, 2009 at 10:07 PM.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 11:39 PM
  #12  
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I went with the Zippers Redshift 575's in my 96." I also changed the gearing with the EVO Industries 30 tooth sprocket. I'm happy so far.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 12:38 AM
  #13  
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Oh great, I figured I was finished with mods for a while after my handlebar install, now this thread comes along to encourage me. Thanks a lot...
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 04:26 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by iclick
How much increase in lever pressure did you feel after installing the HP clutch spring? I wonder if it is needed if only cams are changed, along with the usual Stage 1 mods, of course.

The clutch is lever is stiffer now, feels more like a clutch on a sporty. I had issues with the motor making enough power that it would break the clutch loose. If I jumped on it at any speed, in any gear, the rpms would jump way up with no increase in speed. Felt like I pulled the clutch in. So I replaced the clutch spring and switched back to HD F1 in the primary. Problem solved.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 07:59 AM
  #15  
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I had Andrews 54H installed along with some other mods, I am quite satisfied, tq comes on real low, 2200ish and pulls hard and I can easily cruise along loaded in 6th with cruise set at 70mph and it putts right along. Im a big guy and ride 2 up 90% of the time and the package put together for mine really made a big difference. Now I understand you said "cam only". I'd still use the 54H and if the decision hits you to go more then your already set. I'd also reccomend as long as your in there if your keeping the bike long term put in torrington bearings and a cam support plate.

Just my 2 cents.......mps
 

Last edited by mps1168; Jul 1, 2009 at 08:01 AM.
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:00 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by TheWhitedogg
I have to agree that the 255's are a great cam for the 96 if you are looking for low-mid range grunt. I followed Iclicks advice and got a used set. I spent $400 on cams, bearing puller/installer, cam install kit, adjustable pushrods and SE HP clutch spring. I also spent some coin on a dyno tune to complete the set up. The maps from fuel moto just were not working for me. To me this has been the best bang for my buck.
Could you or someone explain this clutch spring thing for those of us that do not understand what is going on here?? Were does this go, how much does it cost, and what are the benefits of this?

Thank you
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:23 AM
  #17  
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I also took iclick advice/suggestion and went with the SE 255 cams. My mpg in 6th went up by about 4 mpg. It is very noticeable the engine does not work as hard on mountain roads and heavy inclines which results in better mpg.

I was after torque and mpg. I ride 50% solo and 2 up. I also live on a mountain so there are a lot of curves and hills.
I am a very happy camper. Harley's SE 103 can't get ahead of me now and the 110's don't bring shame to me anymore.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 11:00 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by TheWhitedogg
The clutch is lever is stiffer now, feels more like a clutch on a sporty. I had issues with the motor making enough power that it would break the clutch loose. If I jumped on it at any speed, in any gear, the rpms would jump way up with no increase in speed. Felt like I pulled the clutch in. So I replaced the clutch spring and switched back to HD F1 in the primary. Problem solved.
Now I recall we discussed this before.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 11:05 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by dirtdobber
I also took iclick advice/suggestion and went with the SE 255 cams. My mpg in 6th went up by about 4 mpg. It is very noticeable the engine does not work as hard on mountain roads and heavy inclines which results in better mpg.
My mileage stayed about the same, but it was good to begin with so I'm not complaining. I also found that the engine labors less with the 255's, especially at low RPM's. I can now go down to 55mph or even lower in 6th while the engine maintains smoothness.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 11:52 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by iclick
My mileage stayed about the same, but it was good to begin with so I'm not complaining. I also found that the engine labors less with the 255's, especially at low RPM's. I can now go down to 55mph or even lower in 6th while the engine maintains smoothness.
What are the specs on the SE 255's?? Where does it start biulding power, and where does it fall off, and the lift of it?

Also, can someone tell more about this Clutch Spring?

Thanks
 
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