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Never tie-down from the handlebars unless you wish to bend them.
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Been hauling bikes for years tying from the bars and never bent a set....Sure, I guess if you tied off out near the grips on something like beach bars, you might bend a set. However, I usually put my soft-ties fairly close to the handlebar clamp.
I,am planning on hauling a bike about 1500 miles round trip and was wondering if anyone has an idea of how to tie it down without compressing the forks. It just doesn't seem like a good idea to compress the forks for that long of a time. It looks like it would have to be hard on something, seals, springs, ect. Thanks for any ideas.
I have purchased roughly $400 worth of tie down straps, and towed my bike thousands of miles. Save yourself a lot of grief, and tie the bike down so the shocks function. The trailer has no shocks, so why eliminate the dampening the bike gives you? The handlebars are not built for tie down. I understand the logic of wanting to tie down furthest from the center of gravity but, when the bike bounces the straps loosen. Even 5,000 lb ratchet straps will fail on bumps. As I said, $400 is not exaggeration.
So tie it to the "Correct Place" so that the shock1 continue to function, 1 will move, 2 will be stationary.
orrect Place"
I use a Lock&Load wheel chock (https://www.locknloadwheelchocks.com/) that comes with a floor mounting plate for, that you attach a ratchet strap to, that goes up and over the wheel itself. Like the "corrrect place" in the previous post, this allows the bike shocks to work as normal but keeping the bike securly tied down and the front wheel cannot slide sideways. With a set of their self-tensioning rear straps to keep the rear of bike frome sliding sideways, this is supposed to be all you need. However, the bike seems to be able to lean side to side a little so I use a set of suplementary straps connected to the frame horisontally up high attached to my trailer side walls. These straps are only an added precaution to keep the bike frome leaning side to side and not a hold down, thus removing any imposed horizontal loads to the bike that could damage the bike itself when the trailer moves side to side.
I use a Lock&Load wheel chock (https://www.locknloadwheelchocks.com/) that comes with a floor mounting plate for, that you attach a ratchet strap to, that goes up and over the wheel itself. Like the "corrrect place" in the previous post, this allows the bike shocks to work as normal but keeping the bike securly tied down and the front wheel cannot slide sideways. With a set of their self-tensioning rear straps to keep the rear of bike frome sliding sideways, this is supposed to be all you need. However, the bike seems to be able to lean side to side a little so I use a set of suplementary straps connected to the frame horisontally up high attached to my trailer side walls. These straps are only an added precaution to keep the bike frome leaning side to side and not a hold down, thus removing any imposed horizontal loads to the bike that could damage the bike itself when the trailer moves side to side.
I use a condor wheel chock. I attach rachet tie diwns to the rear floor boards and itt pulls the bike solidly Into the chalk hardly compressing the front forks. It also prevents the rear wheel from moving. Check their website. There are other brands that do the same thing
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