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I'm confused about this "hard starting" issue. I've had a PCIII on my '06 SG since it's 1000 mi. service and it has never failed to start nor has it taken more than one attempt to get it running. It does turn the motor over maybe 1-2 revolutions before it starts but it's never needed a second or third attempt. It now is a 95", 100+/100+ motor, still has the original battery and starts first time every time. So my question is: what do you consider "hard starting" to be?
I'm confused about this "hard starting" issue. I've had a PCIII on my '06 SG since it's 1000 mi. service and it has never failed to start nor has it taken more than one attempt to get it running. It does turn the motor over maybe 1-2 revolutions before it starts but it's never needed a second or third attempt. It now is a 95", 100+/100+ motor, still has the original battery and starts first time every time. So my question is: what do you consider "hard starting" to be?
Since I have put the pcIII on it has never started the same. I always seem to have 4-6 revolutions where when it was new it started right when you hit the button. This is what I mean when I say hard starting. This is the same cold or hot does not matter.
I'm confused about this "hard starting" issue. I've had a PCIII on my '06 SG since it's 1000 mi. service and it has never failed to start nor has it taken more than one attempt to get it running. It does turn the motor over maybe 1-2 revolutions before it starts but it's never needed a second or third attempt. It now is a 95", 100+/100+ motor, still has the original battery and starts first time every time. So my question is: what do you consider "hard starting" to be?
Agreed. With a 'Stage I', the bike should not be hard to start. In fact, should be the opposite. Mine starts right up without a hitch, and so does all of the bikes I ride with. If it's 'hard starting', that indicates other issues which could be numerous (bad PC, wrong download, bad plugs, EFI issue ....).
Start simple and go from there. Since you're PC is from FuelMoto, call them up and state the issue you're having. I'm sure they will have some suggestions. Might be as simple as a 'new' download.
I think we are getting a little of subject here though. I know how to correct the starting problem. If I hit the start button as soon as I hit the run button it starts just fine. I was just worried about that hurting anything. I am really just trying to figure out if a dyno or thundermax with auotune or another tuner would give me better results. I can pick up a Thnudermax pretty reasonble. I have also seen of people tuning the tts themselves.
I got it - it's not really starting hard it's just taking a couple extra revs to fire and run. And I think you're right - 4-6 revs before starting probably is excessive.
Just call Jamie at fuelmoto and buy a PCIII mapped and ready to go......they are awsome and 98% of there maps dont need to be dinoed from what i hear.
I have a PCIII now and it has one of Jamies maps in now. I know it is probably real close I was just wondering how much better i could or could not get with a Thundermax or a good dyno tune.
I am thinking about changing out my PCIII. Looking into a Thundermax with autotune. Will I see a change in power once the autotune changes the base map?
Only if the original base map is inaccurate, and FM's maps are typically spot-on.
Will my fuel mileage get better? getting around anywhere from 35 to 40 now. Will I feel like it has more power?
FM tunes for cooling and throttle-response over mileage, so if you want better mileage why not just lean the cruise range values in the base map? You might first try FM's "mileage map," which will help some. I leaned mine even more on my '07 both with the PCIII and later PCV, eventually adding Auto-Tune, and got up to 50mpg on the backroads. If you are getting 35-40 in city riding only you may not do better with any tuner, regardless of the map used--but the PCIII can provide both excellent mileage and performance together with the proper tune. You just need to tweak yours to priorize mileage over cooling, and you can do it without harming WOT performance at all. Whether or not you have an oil cooler will determine how far you can go with this process. For example, I was running 14.7:1 on my SG with no adverse side-effects, including excessive heat.
I have been using a can map for my bike since I have had it built and a map I got from Jamie at Fuelmoto. Could not really feel a big change in either one.
I'm not surprised, as FM's maps are very accurate, IMO. Your local tuner must've given you a good tune if it matched the FM canned map.
Just trying to make sense if a dyno tune would be best. It is not that I don't believe in the PCIII I just hate the hard starting that it gives you.
A dyno-tune will not help the delayed-start issue and you already know how to fix that problem. Simply don't wait 'til the "check engine" light extinguishes, as this is not necessary, and hit the starter immediately after turning on the ignition. Nothing in the owner's or service manuals say anything about any waiting.
If your only complaints are gas mileage and the delay-start issue these can easily be improved, and without the expense of a dyno tune or purchasing another tuner, which IMO is totally unnecessary.
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