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Did you do the install yourself? If so, does the inner primary have to come off?
Some say yes, some say no on the inner removal. I had to pull mine off because of the lip on the inner primary toward the bottom left and I didn't want to grind it off. Some say you can loosen the inner and rotate it a bit, but I just preferred to remove it all together and put on a new shaft seal in there while I was at it. It's not really hard as long as you have some basic tools and can immobilize the primary sprockets with a piece of flat stock (same as the HD locking tool) or a tightly rolled shop rag.
Last edited by 07RoadHawg; Sep 24, 2009 at 07:41 PM.
I did the install myself, not a big deal. Inner primary did not have to come off but I had to take a Dremel with a cylindrical stone to it to get the rotor off. There is a lip on the inside of the gasket surface between about 6-9 o'clock. My rotor hit on that. I probably only had to take off 1/32 or so. I masked off everything else except where I was grinding. Then when you pull the rotor off tilt it so it clears the edge of the primary. Had to make up a locking tool from 1/4 x 1 stock, make sure the ends of it seat near the bottom of the sprocket teeth, not out towards the tips or you may bend or break one of the teeth. Both my compensator bolt and the clutch nut came off fairly easily. The SE comp uses a retainer that is splined to the crank extension and it has a 1-3/16 hex on it that is used to hold the comp when tightening the new retaining bolt. I used a bigass crescent wrench with a cheater pipe over the handle resting on the floor to hold the comp while the bolt was torqued. I used a zip tie to lock the tensioner before removing it. I reused the primary gasket, no leaks after 80 miles.
I just stumbled across this thread,My 2010 Ultra Limited sounds like it has these symptoms.Since day one when I start it it will about half the time give a big "whack" when I crank it to start and sometimes when I start off loaded with 2 people on a slight incline if it lug a little it whacks 3-4 times until I give it more throttle ans slip the clutch.Am I in the club or not?? I looked at my 2005 + 2010 parts books and the compensators are completely different with the 2005 looking like the Screamin Eagle kit , is this true?.I did mention it to my dealer and they said they never heard of a noise but to bring it in for the 5000 mile checkup and mention it.I do all my own service and have no plans to have them perform checkup to get issue fixed under warranty if this is a problem.Has anyone heard of this Screamin eagle upgrade being done under warranty or am I the first to complain about a 2010??
Thanks,Stan
I just stumbled across this thread,My 2010 Ultra Limited sounds like it has these symptoms.Since day one when I start it it will about half the time give a big "whack" when I crank it to start and sometimes when I start off loaded with 2 people on a slight incline if it lug a little it whacks 3-4 times until I give it more throttle ans slip the clutch.Am I in the club or not?? I looked at my 2005 + 2010 parts books and the compensators are completely different with the 2005 looking like the Screamin Eagle kit , is this true?.I did mention it to my dealer and they said they never heard of a noise but to bring it in for the 5000 mile checkup and mention it.I do all my own service and have no plans to have them perform checkup to get issue fixed under warranty if this is a problem.Has anyone heard of this Screamin eagle upgrade being done under warranty or am I the first to complain about a 2010??
Thanks,Stan
Yes, it sounds like your in the club.
Never heard of the noise. That's funny.
I had mine replaced on the 08 with a Screaming Eagle under warranty. They had already replaced it twice with OEM ones. I had to pay the difference which I believe was $100.
Installed in my 07 FLHX to specs. it wasn't that hard, road down the road 65mph 5th 6th gear
had a bad viberation, went back to shop put the old one back in everything fine now, changed because of the starter clanking problems everyones having.
Had my 2010 compensator replaced under warranty at 23,000 miles. Paid about the $100 difference to upgrade to the SE compensator. Bike starts and shifts smoother. Also much easier to find neutral.
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