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Cracked Pipe

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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 08:53 AM
  #1  
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Default Cracked Pipe

Not "crack pipe" but a cracked left side down pipe. Last year I replaced the left side, with the Flowsack (sp) for true duals and really liked the product. The system only replaced the the left side U pipe and right side streight pipe. Now I have a crack in the left side down pipe which conects from the U pipe and can't figure out how or why that happens on these beasts. Other than going to the dealer are there an ideas on a fix. Will JB wield hold? A friend of mine does not think it can be wielded because the metal is too thin. Anyone have the part number for this on a 2001 RK.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 09:36 AM
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Seems to me, I recall that the mounting bracket was on a tech bulletin. Maybe someone like DAWG can give you specific information. I would PM him and ask. Also, pretty damn sure that a weld will not hold.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 09:59 AM
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I'm sure you mean the Fullsac duals kit. If you are cracking exhaust pipes, I would look at fixing the cause as well as the pipe. JB Weld will not be a good long term fix, either weld it regularly or replace. You can post here on the WTB section or ebay and find a ton of take off systems real cheap. I would check your bracket on top of the starter to make sure it's not broke, check your motor mount and stabilizers and swing arm bushings, etc. as well
 
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 10:08 AM
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No on JB Weld. Yes on MIG or replace.

My crossover pipe shattered under the cover. I didn't notice it until a valve guide dropped out of the head at a gas station in the middle of nowhere, S.D.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 10:36 AM
  #5  
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dawg, oh master of the all known and forum guru, do you by chance know the part number for the down pipe, the one that connects the U to the muffler. Thanks brothers for the info, I had an idea JB weild was not a good idea. I did find that the bracket on top of the starter took a couple of cranks from the wrench; this also solved a horrable squeak I had. I guess if this brack gets loose it cause some problems. I found it loose when I blew out my U pipe last year, making me believe the vibration caused that problem. Did not think it was that loose this time but I guess it was enough to vibrate the pipe enough to now crack the down pipe. The Fullsac pipe seems fine, I guess a better type of metal than factory. Thanks again.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 11:02 AM
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65627-99a pipe, exhaust, left, chrome $94.50
 
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 11:17 AM
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My Y pipe cracked all the way around right where the rear and front cylinders meet. It was still under warranty but there was a month wait for it. I welded the cracks with a wire welder and it held until the dealer replaced it. I'm not even a welder and it worked for me. I just cleaned it real good and tacked it all the way around then went back and welded between the tacks. It was a real mess, cracks all over it. I was missing the nut for the bracket that is above the starter (probably why it broke.).
 
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 11:28 AM
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Like said, take-offs are a dime a dozen. I'd go that route before buying new.
 
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