Handle Bar Adjustment Question
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 393
Likes: 0
From: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Before you take apart the fairing, try what worked for me & a friend. 1st, make sure the bike in gear, and blocking the front tire isn't a bad idea (we didn't). My friend pulled up under the left side of the handle bar, and I did the same to the right side. We both applied force to the under side of the clutch/brake bracket clamps, not on the grips. We applied firm, steady pressure & backed off as soon as there was movement. A few, not so hard pulls & we moved the bars almost an inch. On our bikes, there really wasn't enough space before hitting the inner fairing to move the bar more than an inch.
Let me guess you didn't have a manual?
So do you also keep tightening a bolt when you realize that is is probably crossthreaded? No of course not because that is not how to properly do it. You may have not hurt anything doing that but it isn't worth it on a $20K bike to half *ss it. You could have pinched brake lines rubbed down the knurls so when you grab a handful of front brake and don't stop you will have only yourself and your buddy to thank.
Last edited by nocages4me; Sep 15, 2009 at 12:00 PM.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
It seems there are several contributors here who need to get their asses down to their nearest dealer and buy an effing manual! Then you can all stop saying stoopid things and do the job right. Right?!
Doh!
Doh!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 5,072
Likes: 104
From: Prescott, AZ
When the manual is read at the part on HOW to install the handle bars - it will give a sequence that is NOT mentioned in any post above - according to the book, there is a special way to install the four bolts - It is super easy to cross thread them... I have done this several times and the Radio MUST be removed to do the by the book - lots of people short cut the process and they may get away with it.. for me, I will follow the book -
everytime I have done this... I put the clamp (BTW - use a Single clamp always) on and start the bolts by hand too see how far I can get them it... then install the bars and start all bolts by hand,,,IF I can not get them to start like my 'test' I stop and find out why - I a person just grabs a wrench - it will cross something.
2004 manual - page 2-98
5-a
Tighten front screws until upper and lower handle bar clamps make contact
b. Tighten rear screws to 12-16 ft pounds
c. stighten front screws to 12-16 ft pounds
Note: a slight gap will exist betwen the upper and lower clamp at the rear of the handlebars after tightening..
No where does it say to use either blue or red loctite... I have read on the forum in several posts where people say to use either blue or even red loctite... good luck
book
Now, go buy the book...
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 974
Likes: 0
From: Morrisville NC
there is a small pin under the ignition cap with the key in turn the lock and push the pin up you will then be able to remove it. under the cap is a nut that you have to remove and the 2 side bolts on the lower fairing cap ,use the Allen keys with the ball at the end that are used at different angles loosen the rear bolts on the clamp and move the bar to where you want then re tighten the bolts put the cap back on and now comes the hard part you will have to play with the switch lock to line it back up it takes some patients and a long regular screw driver but it will go back in remove key and make sure the pin is back out and you should be done
Thread Starter
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Advanced
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 76
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Thanks for your time.
I appreciate it.
+++++++++++++++11111111111111111
When the manual is read at the part on HOW to install the handle bars - it will give a sequence that is NOT mentioned in any post above - according to the book, there is a special way to install the four bolts - It is super easy to cross thread them... I have done this several times and the Radio MUST be removed to do the by the book - lots of people short cut the process and they may get away with it.. for me, I will follow the book -
everytime I have done this... I put the clamp (BTW - use a Single clamp always) on and start the bolts by hand too see how far I can get them it... then install the bars and start all bolts by hand,,,IF I can not get them to start like my 'test' I stop and find out why - I a person just grabs a wrench - it will cross something.
2004 manual - page 2-98
5-a
Tighten front screws until upper and lower handle bar clamps make contact
b. Tighten rear screws to 12-16 ft pounds
c. stighten front screws to 12-16 ft pounds
Note: a slight gap will exist betwen the upper and lower clamp at the rear of the handlebars after tightening..
No where does it say to use either blue or red loctite... I have read on the forum in several posts where people say to use either blue or even red loctite... good luck
book
Now, go buy the book...
When the manual is read at the part on HOW to install the handle bars - it will give a sequence that is NOT mentioned in any post above - according to the book, there is a special way to install the four bolts - It is super easy to cross thread them... I have done this several times and the Radio MUST be removed to do the by the book - lots of people short cut the process and they may get away with it.. for me, I will follow the book -
everytime I have done this... I put the clamp (BTW - use a Single clamp always) on and start the bolts by hand too see how far I can get them it... then install the bars and start all bolts by hand,,,IF I can not get them to start like my 'test' I stop and find out why - I a person just grabs a wrench - it will cross something.
2004 manual - page 2-98
5-a
Tighten front screws until upper and lower handle bar clamps make contact
b. Tighten rear screws to 12-16 ft pounds
c. stighten front screws to 12-16 ft pounds
Note: a slight gap will exist betwen the upper and lower clamp at the rear of the handlebars after tightening..
No where does it say to use either blue or red loctite... I have read on the forum in several posts where people say to use either blue or even red loctite... good luck
book
Now, go buy the book...
Thread Starter
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Advanced
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Thanks
Thanks for your help seems to make sense to me.
there is a small pin under the ignition cap with the key in turn the lock and push the pin up you will then be able to remove it. under the cap is a nut that you have to remove and the 2 side bolts on the lower fairing cap ,use the Allen keys with the ball at the end that are used at different angles loosen the rear bolts on the clamp and move the bar to where you want then re tighten the bolts put the cap back on and now comes the hard part you will have to play with the switch lock to line it back up it takes some patients and a long regular screw driver but it will go back in remove key and make sure the pin is back out and you should be done
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 702
Likes: 2
From: Florida
Before you take apart the fairing, try what worked for me & a friend. 1st, make sure the bike in gear, and blocking the front tire isn't a bad idea (we didn't). My friend pulled up under the left side of the handle bar, and I did the same to the right side. We both applied force to the under side of the clutch/brake bracket clamps, not on the grips. We applied firm, steady pressure & backed off as soon as there was movement. A few, not so hard pulls & we moved the bars almost an inch. On our bikes, there really wasn't enough space before hitting the inner fairing to move the bar more than an inch.
Worst advice I have ever read on this forum.
I know you said to give you a break on getting the manual, but it will pay for itself on this job alone. It's a relatively easy process if you have the walk through. The manual says to get to the adjustment from the inside fairing, partially disassembling the ignition switch then removing the fairing cap. Once the fairing cap is off, you can access and loosen the the rear screws on the upper handlebar clamp. Adjust as necessary. Again, the manual makes it much easier to understand, but it's covered in three seperate sections. Hope this helped.
Good advice. And I would mark the original position of the bars before adjusting them. I was glad I did. By the way I have found that the higher I have my hands the more likely I am to get neck/shoulder pain.
Worst advice I have ever read on this forum.
I know you said to give you a break on getting the manual, but it will pay for itself on this job alone. It's a relatively easy process if you have the walk through. The manual says to get to the adjustment from the inside fairing, partially disassembling the ignition switch then removing the fairing cap. Once the fairing cap is off, you can access and loosen the the rear screws on the upper handlebar clamp. Adjust as necessary. Again, the manual makes it much easier to understand, but it's covered in three seperate sections. Hope this helped.
Good advice. And I would mark the original position of the bars before adjusting them. I was glad I did. By the way I have found that the higher I have my hands the more likely I am to get neck/shoulder pain.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,873
Likes: 13
From: NW Arkansas
there is a small pin under the ignition cap with the key in turn the lock and push the pin up you will then be able to remove it. under the cap is a nut that you have to remove and the 2 side bolts on the lower fairing cap ,use the Allen keys with the ball at the end that are used at different angles loosen the rear bolts on the clamp and move the bar to where you want then re tighten the bolts put the cap back on and now comes the hard part you will have to play with the switch lock to line it back up it takes some patients and a long regular screw driver but it will go back in remove key and make sure the pin is back out and you should be done
My dealer adjusted mine this way, and I have done it myself. Watch how you take the ing. switch out so you put it back right. There is a little more of a trick to removing the ign switch than is described here, but it really is easy if you know how. The best advice I can give you is go by a dealer and ask the service dept if they will show you how to take out the ignition switch. It only takes a second. If you do a search here and happen to use the correct key words, you will find many posts that start out. "Help, I took my ignition switch out and can't get it back in." Also, if you don't have the ball end allen wrenches, get some. You can't really get to those bolts straight on. Lots of things to scratch close to those bolts so be careful.
Last edited by mike5511; Sep 16, 2009 at 03:17 AM.
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Joined: Feb 2009
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Made adjustment
The ignition switch was a little tricky but I managed it. What made the adjustment easy for me was cutting down an Allen wrench so it would fit under the radio easily. This way I didn't have to come in at an angle or remove the radio. Moving the bars up made the bike feel much better to me, gave me the proper leverage that I was looking for. 
Thanks for all the help. Genno
Thanks for all the help. Genno