Thanks
I followed IBHARLEY directions and did not have nary a problem. Ignition switch was a pc of cake. Please tell me you guys did'nt believe the post on just yanking on the bars, I know that guy is laughing his *** off. Thanks again best to ya!

Russ

 

No he was serious, he used "flex tubing" when he fabricated his handlebars. (you know, the kind you use for exhaust pipe)...they "adjust" very easily this way. No wrenches required. Takes about five seconds. It also adds to the suspension and takes damn near all the vibration away from the hands for less numbness....he figures in the next day or so he'll have perfected the heated grips part by feeding it straight from the front cylinder head with a sort of "compression release agent"...now most people would use a welder to satisfy the orthodox types to plug the joints at the seams but this dude found that by just clamping it just so, it plugs most of the fumes coming out from around your gloves...it really looks cool on cold days too

You gotta thing outside the box fella's.

 

Repeat every 100 miles!

You wont find this in the service manual. Pull the fairing and do it right would be my suggestion.

 

What kind of "Thing" do you keep outside the box? I prefer inside myself

 

Glad I have no friends to help so I will just have to do it the hard way!

Russ

ps I have reciently been looking at redoing the exhaust to run under my seat for comfort riding in the winter!

 

OK, besides being a smart *** this is the first I posted. I just finished adjusting the handlebars on my '07 Ultra. Lets just say...the hard way is the easy way.

Really, at least on my 07, the Ignition Switch/Fairing Cap is the WRONG WAY!!! Even my manuel says to do it this way but for mine it is the wrong way, it will not work. I got my switch out...easy...I took the two screws out on the sides of the forks...easy...I pull back on the bottom of the Fairing Cap and get it free from the sides of the Fork...easy...but the damn Switch itself is in the way and it needs to come completely out of the bike and that my friends I didn't want to do...for that I'd pay the dealer his hard earned $90.00 and let the guy at the shop do it...wait three weeks and all...I ain't doing it!!!

So now for the longer, but really much easier and effective way that is no sweat...now that I've done it once I could do again in probably twenty minutes total...first time took two hours. I had mine up on a Craftsman MC Jack...makes it easy to turn the steering assembly right to left and you gotta do it a lot....The front of the fairing needs to be removed along with the windsheild and headlight..three screw's on the windshield, the front of the fairing has four screws, two down on the bottom behind the Fork, and two up top by the wind deflectors (remove the deflectors too)...so for me I was able to pretty much just simply lift it off the front of the fairing by tilting it back and sort of rocking it around so it cleared the side lights...I was able to hold the fairing and unplug it myself, I thought I'd need assistance but didn't. So now look at the radio and all the wires that'd stop you from pulling it straight forward (back towards you from the front of the bike) need to be unplugged and pulled out of the way. There are two screws on each side of the radio that can be accessed easily with a long ball headed allen...I think they were 3/16" or 1/4" I can't remember. but access them by using the oval hole on the shiny black painted framework that surrounds the radio.

So no everything is out of the way, ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS PULL IT OUT OF THE WAY ABOUT AN INCH AND A HALF...access the two front bolt now from behind the fairing, I mean from where you sit and normally look at the radio. I loosened the two allen bolts with a hex socket and ratchet about two full ratchets each and then lifted my bars up about an inch or so as my eyeball could see.

This is the good news, this all went back together very easy, just make sure you check all along the front/rear seal of the fairing and make sure the U shaped gasket is down and put on nice and neat...I also took a cloth and wiped away the loose dirt and crude that hadn't been washed off since new. Be carefull on the bottom to make sure all the wiring gets stuffed back in proper and have a screw or two waiting, I pretty much did this all myself but by now a buddy had stopped by with some beer and I had him sort of sqeeze firm so I could easily screw the screw up underneath and behind the fork.

Funny how it all works out, I needed to replace my windsheild anyway and so it all worked together eXCEPT FOR THE WILD GOOSE CHASE THE MANUEL SENT ME ON!!!! Argh!

By the way, those Klock windshields are nice...no more heavy buffeting, a noticeable, more secure and clean cockpit vortex. I don't notice the difference between the 11 1/2" and the Stock 12" as far as height...but aerodynamically you could say it was night and day. Certainly not a Retro look but Functionally it is superior.

Sorry if this seems long but for me I sure like hearing the details, the things the manuel do not tell you.

One more thing for the guys who try the switch method and can't get the Switch back in because of alignment...a Snapon regular screw driver works great...just figure it out, remember the key on the switch one side of the key is wider than the other...line em up in the position you want and put it in...with the KEY in the Toggle, in the UNLOCKED position, and the pin underneath set up...slide it in and be careful to make sure it is on the right clip on where it clips and stays on...mine came out the first time I didnt have it set just right.

 

Since the OP was almost 4 months ago - I am assuming he has his bars adjusted by now - still wanted to respond to the above statement on the ing switch.. I really do not see the issue - I can have mine off in under 30 seconds and back on in about 2 seconds... it takes more time to remove the two side screws than to remove the ing switch?? put the key in - push the pin - turn the key in the proper direction and off it comes... to put back on - insert switch and turn - done... Now I do have a 2004 and your is an 07 - did something change in those three years????????????

 

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...h-removal.html


Watch the video in the 1st post for ignition switch removal.

 

THe issue is that you can't get there from here. My 07 Ultra will not allow me to access the h-bar bolts from the switch side...so I did it from the front of the fairing by removing the whole front of the fairing.

Everyone know's by now that the switch comes right out...But what's left behind? The switch goes into something right? It's that part, I don't know what you wanna call it but it's the part of the ignition switch assembly that stays inside the bike when you pull out the tumbler on the big **** part of the switch. The ISSUE is that the Fairing Cap will not come off...it is still stuck down under whatever's left of the switch that didn't come out with the ****. The Fairing cap or cover or whatever you wanna call it is all that keeps you from doing it this way. Without taking it all the way off, you simply cannot access the rear bolts on the h-bars because the cap is still covering it.

Now I don't know why this is the way it is or how many bikes are one way on how many are the other but like one guy says, "pick your poison" Either way it is an easy job, If you can get your cap off then do it that way, just be prepared to play with the switch...but if not...then the fairing is nothing to discourage a person from doing it that'a way. The bolts were easy to access once the radio was moved a bit.

I sure wish someone would say what it is on why I couldn't access it from the swich side...that surely would be easy if I could get passed the cap.

 

Repeat every 100 miles!

I had a buch of bicycles that were like that growing up...handlebars always stripped out...but then there were stripped before I got 'em handed down to me so it was normal to have bars that way...like he said, 'every hundred miles.'