Floating rotors
Asside from the hub being chrome, floating rotors are less likely to warp under extreme heat. Reason being, as I understand it, one piece rotors are held in place around the center by the retaining bolts. Floating rotors remain free to to move naturally. If the rotor becomes overheated as it can under severe braking, it will warp. All rotors will warp under severe heat but when they are held flat in the center, the warpage actually becomes a bend and the warpage is perminant. Floating rotors return to normal as they cool.
Now the question is, what is the likelyhood of rotor warpage on a touring bike?????
Did I mention that the hub is chrome?
Edit>>> No one replied when I started this answer but good answers all
Now the question is, what is the likelyhood of rotor warpage on a touring bike?????
Did I mention that the hub is chrome?
Edit>>> No one replied when I started this answer but good answers all
My hubs are vivid black, attached to the rotor by pressure washer rivets allowing the "float". Also better quality stainless, less prone to corrosion, cost $176 for the pair, good investment. Stock rotors can and do become warped on touring bikes!
It's a performance issue. My 06 Classic had em on at 400 miles... Better braking, less noise.
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Floaters are definitely a much improved method for attaching the rotor to the wheel and should in this day and time be standard equipment on a heavy weight Harley. All 2006 Dynas have Floaters as do most other manufacturers. Hopefully none of us are riding our touring bikes in a manner that requires heavy performance braking like a sport bike, but consider summer temperatures and riding in the twisties two up and there is mucho heat built up in the direct bolt on OEM HD rotors. Not good!
All metals "grow" when heated. The diameter of cast iron brake discs can increase as much as 2 or 3mm at elevated braking temperatures. When the disc is radially restrained from growing (as in all one-piece rotors in the stock Harley bolt on configuartion) the friction plates (rotors) are forced into a cone shape as temperature increases, adversely effecting both temperature and pressure distribution within the pads and the feel of the break pedal or brake lever.
Then add in the fact that conventional brake rotors don’t run absolutely true. They all wiggle a little bit. No matter how careful you are about truing them up and and any bearing looseness, rotor wear, manufacturing tolerances of the hub, rotor, and rotor adaptor all add up. This can cause a feeling of brakes pulsing and decreased peformance.
This is where dynamically mounted (floating rivet attachement) rotors come in. When you dynamically mount a brake rotor you allow a small amount of movement axially (side to side). When a brake rotor is spinning it can contain large amounts of stored energy. What this means is once the rotor is spinning it finds where it needs to be and stays there. That is the beauty of the floating rotor design.
IMHO putting floating rotors on a HD touring machine is a super inexpensive peformance upgrade for one of the most important safety features on a motorcyle. Maybe this should be a new rumor for 2007 HD. Standard equipment ALL bikes have floating rotors.
Who remembers when HD had one simple rotor and a two puck caliper onthe heayweights.....boy was that scary
Floaters are definitely a much improved method for attaching the rotor to the wheel and should in this day and time be standard equipment on a heavy weight Harley. All 2006 Dynas have Floaters as do most other manufacturers. Hopefully none of us are riding our touring bikes in a manner that requires heavy performance braking like a sport bike, but consider summer temperatures and riding in the twisties two up and there is mucho heat built up in the direct bolt on OEM HD rotors. Not good!
All metals "grow" when heated. The diameter of cast iron brake discs can increase as much as 2 or 3mm at elevated braking temperatures. When the disc is radially restrained from growing (as in all one-piece rotors in the stock Harley bolt on configuartion) the friction plates (rotors) are forced into a cone shape as temperature increases, adversely effecting both temperature and pressure distribution within the pads and the feel of the break pedal or brake lever.
Then add in the fact that conventional brake rotors don’t run absolutely true. They all wiggle a little bit. No matter how careful you are about truing them up and and any bearing looseness, rotor wear, manufacturing tolerances of the hub, rotor, and rotor adaptor all add up. This can cause a feeling of brakes pulsing and decreased peformance.
This is where dynamically mounted (floating rivet attachement) rotors come in. When you dynamically mount a brake rotor you allow a small amount of movement axially (side to side). When a brake rotor is spinning it can contain large amounts of stored energy. What this means is once the rotor is spinning it finds where it needs to be and stays there. That is the beauty of the floating rotor design.
IMHO putting floating rotors on a HD touring machine is a super inexpensive peformance upgrade for one of the most important safety features on a motorcyle. Maybe this should be a new rumor for 2007 HD. Standard equipment ALL bikes have floating rotors.
Who remembers when HD had one simple rotor and a two puck caliper onthe heayweights.....boy was that scary


