?? SE Compensator ??
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 218
Likes: 1
From: saginaw michigan
I was wondering about that also. What I think it may do is allow a smoother load on the starter. I know my old kick start bikes would kick back a lot less with a smooth firm kick. My knees and ankles hurt jut thing about those.
I just finished installing one,mainly to get rid of the start-up clunk. It did do that, I have not had it on the road yet. The one I pulled out still looked very good so I don't expect to see any other improvements.
I still plan on putting compression releases when I do my 103 install. The 103 kit and SE255 cams do increase the CCP which will put more load on the starter. The altitude also affects the CCP, the higher you are the less the CCP will be.
I just finished installing one,mainly to get rid of the start-up clunk. It did do that, I have not had it on the road yet. The one I pulled out still looked very good so I don't expect to see any other improvements.
I still plan on putting compression releases when I do my 103 install. The 103 kit and SE255 cams do increase the CCP which will put more load on the starter. The altitude also affects the CCP, the higher you are the less the CCP will be.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,749
Likes: 16
From: sand mountain Alabama
This is my opinion from what I have read here on the forum.
It is nothing more than a opinion.
The factory compensator sprocket has a clutch like inners. The spring inside is inferior. It bottoms out under load or while starting. This explains the jerking or slipping I mentioned in my previous post. My Ultra would kick back through the breather and then the starter would discontinue working, disengaged.
The SE compensator has a much heavier spring , inside and 1 outside. A good way to check the difference do this. With the factory compensator you can release the throttle while riding and then add throttle back. You will feel a slack in the drive line. With the SE compensator there will be no slack in the drive line. It will feel more solid.
I think the reason my idle has less vibrations is the added weight to the crank. The compensator goes on the crank output.
Before changing the compensator while sitting at a relight the vibrations was so bad I had checked my motor mounts and fairing braces several times but never found any problems with either. It still has the HD vibration but a lot less annoying.
hope this helps someone
again this is my opinion only
in God we Trust
dd
It is nothing more than a opinion.
The factory compensator sprocket has a clutch like inners. The spring inside is inferior. It bottoms out under load or while starting. This explains the jerking or slipping I mentioned in my previous post. My Ultra would kick back through the breather and then the starter would discontinue working, disengaged.
The SE compensator has a much heavier spring , inside and 1 outside. A good way to check the difference do this. With the factory compensator you can release the throttle while riding and then add throttle back. You will feel a slack in the drive line. With the SE compensator there will be no slack in the drive line. It will feel more solid.
I think the reason my idle has less vibrations is the added weight to the crank. The compensator goes on the crank output.
Before changing the compensator while sitting at a relight the vibrations was so bad I had checked my motor mounts and fairing braces several times but never found any problems with either. It still has the HD vibration but a lot less annoying.
hope this helps someone
again this is my opinion only
in God we Trust
dd
Banned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,551
Likes: 6
Wrong, it does help higher compression engines start smoother and quicker. ESPECIALLY higher compression engines!
On startup, the starter instantly engages and applies huge torque to the rear primary sprocket. That turning force is then transmitted to the front sprocket via the primary chain. At that instant, the top of the chain is being pushed forward by the rear sprocket, not pulled forward by the front sprocket, so all slack in the chain at the bottom is then transferred to the top of the chain. When that happens the chain tensioner gets compressed and a HUGE turning shock is then transmitted to the front sprocket. That huge shock will instantly overcome the light spring in the OEM comp(that's when you hear the loud knock) and the crank will begin to turn and spark fire......Then due to the too weak spring, the chain will then slacken, then tighten again generating yet another but not as forceful turning shock as the first and during the slack time the engine will try to roll backwards due to compression........All in all, what happens is due to the weak spring and ramp design in the OEM comp, the crank does not receive a smooth flutterless twist from the starter. It instead gets slacked, , jerked, rolls backwards, and then jerked hard again several times. The SE comp has a much heavier spring and will absorb much more shock without bottoming out and it also greatly reduce the slack because it doesn't bottom out.
Imagine you are trying to start a pull start lawn mower where the rope isn't wound properly and has a few slack places in it on the crank pully, and when you pull the rope, it first jerks up the slack, then turns the engine a little, then has another few inches of slack, then turns the engine a little more, then a little more slack till then engine finally starts.
It's the same thing.
On startup, the starter instantly engages and applies huge torque to the rear primary sprocket. That turning force is then transmitted to the front sprocket via the primary chain. At that instant, the top of the chain is being pushed forward by the rear sprocket, not pulled forward by the front sprocket, so all slack in the chain at the bottom is then transferred to the top of the chain. When that happens the chain tensioner gets compressed and a HUGE turning shock is then transmitted to the front sprocket. That huge shock will instantly overcome the light spring in the OEM comp(that's when you hear the loud knock) and the crank will begin to turn and spark fire......Then due to the too weak spring, the chain will then slacken, then tighten again generating yet another but not as forceful turning shock as the first and during the slack time the engine will try to roll backwards due to compression........All in all, what happens is due to the weak spring and ramp design in the OEM comp, the crank does not receive a smooth flutterless twist from the starter. It instead gets slacked, , jerked, rolls backwards, and then jerked hard again several times. The SE comp has a much heavier spring and will absorb much more shock without bottoming out and it also greatly reduce the slack because it doesn't bottom out.
Imagine you are trying to start a pull start lawn mower where the rope isn't wound properly and has a few slack places in it on the crank pully, and when you pull the rope, it first jerks up the slack, then turns the engine a little, then has another few inches of slack, then turns the engine a little more, then a little more slack till then engine finally starts.
It's the same thing.
Last edited by oinker02; Oct 27, 2009 at 08:54 PM.
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 714
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
Just had my stock one replaced in my 08 Ultra.
Dealer put in SE255 CAMs only and I was getting the grinding sound on starts.
However, I was getting it sometimes with my stock 96.
Dealer replaced it under warranty and I paid the difference for a SE one.
Dealer put in SE255 CAMs only and I was getting the grinding sound on starts.
However, I was getting it sometimes with my stock 96.
Dealer replaced it under warranty and I paid the difference for a SE one.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: West TN
I had the SE compensator installed on my 2010 FLTRX along with the 103 Stage II kit w/ 255 cams. All this was done when I had 1800 miles on the bike. I can tell you that I have zero starting issues with my build and this is after about 2000 miles. The starting is smooth, the initial clutch let-out is smooth and the shifting is smooth. Much better than it was stock. No clunking, just hit the starter and it goes.
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Banned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,551
Likes: 6
No, but it will eliminate noises that the IDS does not fix.......The IDS only reduces the noises made by the OEM comp