Was going with the SE255 cams:
Last edited by TexasFLHX; Jan 28, 2010 at 09:22 AM.
sert
95"
D&D slip ons
true duals
no head work
Pay ABSOLUTELY NO ATTENTION to the crap about poor fuel mileage and lack of power. Absolutely not true, but I guess if you read it on the internet, it must be true.
I bought a set of SE255s off eBay and with Iclick's help, installed them myself. Suburban Motors in Thiensville, WI did the dyno tune for $150. My sixth gear problem is solved, and with 8k on the SE255s, the bike still runs great. More important though, the fix didn't brake the bank. I'm old and cheap and the SE255 mod fit me like a glove. If you have a fat wallet, I'm sure you can do better, but the SE255s are a great value.
Also, the Wood cams are $400 while the SE255's are $300 (MSRP), and you can find the 255's on Ebay for $150 new and used.
If you took an average of the torque through the RPM range, the Woods cam would be higher on the average. I'm not wording that very well. A good example would be the dyno sheet they show on Nightrider. Can't remember what page it's on, but it stays above 100 FtLbs over a longer RPM range than most motors do. I think the motor was built by Cycle Rama.
Hey IClick, do you want to come up to Cincinnati?
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
If you took an average of the torque through the RPM range, the Woods cam would be higher on the average. I'm not wording that very well. A good example would be the dyno sheet they show on Nightrider. Can't remember what page it's on, but it stays above 100 FtLbs over a longer RPM range than most motors do. I think the motor was built by Cycle Rama.
I am anxious for Fuel Moto to test the 6-6's with the 4° advance gear, which is supposed to shift the TQ curve to the left about 300 RPM. That would put the low-end near that of the 255's, but peak-HP would certainly take a hit.


Which is right for any given rider depends on where you want the power. I'm a member of the gang who worships the low-end and midrange while placing little priority on peak-HP (moving the TQ curve up with no shift to the right), but others may prefer to sacrifice the low-end and gain more on the top-end (moving the curve up and to the right). The first group has much less to choose from, as when stock compression is retained it is difficult to hold onto the low-end TQ with longer duration and later intake close specs, and most performance cams tend to have these characteristics. The 255's are a very odd design that obviously emphasizes low-end and midrange TQ (~10% increase) but unapologetically offers little increase in peak-HP (maybe 5% increase). It also leaves little room to grow if someday you want to make a dyno shoot-out winner, as with its mild duration and early intake close it will likely never make more than 90hp even in a 103 with 10:1 compression.
Last edited by iclick; Jan 28, 2010 at 08:22 PM.
Now I know what you experts are thinking..."why did you post this dyno run?" It's not even a Woods TW6 or an SE255 that's driving this engine."
I will tell you this right now; this engine will smoke the SE255 on the street, inspite of the fact that the SE255 may have a higher peak torque number. Just look at where the torque is at 2200 RPM's.
Quoted from NIGHTRIDER:
As you can see for yourself, this engine begins making power right off idle and is still pulling at 6000 RPMs. While this isn't going to win you any dyno shootouts, do not underestimate the ability to move your bike down the road at some very illegal speeds. This engine is a "roll on" king. Whatever gear you choose, at any RPM this engine is going to pull like a freight train when you twist the throttle around. With its lower compression, it isn't going to have much of a detonation issue. It is actually going to make a bike run much faster than the horsepower numbers would have you believe. In short, very close to an ideal street engine for any TC powered bike.


