Club member here too, unfortunately. I took another approach to fix this. It was meant to be temporary until I returned home from a month long trip, but it's still working a year later.

In a friends garage I removed the front hand brake lever, cleaned up the area on the lever that contacts the boot (where switch plunger would have been), and dabbed a good amount of RTV on the lever portion to build up the difference of area lost--maybe about 3/8" if I recall right, and let it cure overnight.

I bought the switch when I returned home, but after thinking of how much of a PITA it was to install my handlbars w/internal wiring I decided to hold off on the job until it was absolutely necessary. 1 year later, I still come across that unopened switch package in the garage. The switch is sort of a trophy now that solidifies why I continure to do more of my own work as opposed to paying the dealership those outrageous prices.

For future club members: I hadn't realized I broke my switch because the brake lights worked normal for about 2 years. This is because I broke a very small portion of the plunger. Eventually my brake lights began to flicker (thought it was a loose bulb) & my cruise control cut off randomly. After reading these forums and the manual I realized that the switch had been gradually wearing down. To verify my problem, I turned the ignition switch on (engine still off), stuck a small screwdriver between the lever & boot, pressed the boot in and there it was--the brake light functioned as it was supposed to. Too bad I had to run into Murphy the trip.

Congrats on your fix.

 

Just wondered if the switch is seperate from the plunger and boot assembly. Or, is it all one piece, switch and plunger and boot ? And if you have to take the master cylinder off of the handlebars to put the set screw into the end of the plunger why not just take off the top of right hand switch housing while you have the master cylinder off and put in a new plastic boot with plunger ?
Or, are you guys just stuffing the set screw into the end of the plunger you broke off sliding in the brake handle and hoping that it pushes the the set screw or what's left of the plunger into the brake switch without taking the master cylinder off of the handlebar ?

Trying to follow what you are saving by putting a 1/4" set screw into the end of the rubber booty plunger ? If you're almost there by taking off the master cylinder and switch housing cover. Or are you just saving the cost of the $50 part by putting in the 40 cent set screw ?

 

After removing my levers on the black bike countless times, I joined the club over the weekend with my first swap on the Ultra. From what I understand, you've got to splice in a new switch....Gonna be tough when the wires are inside the bars.

When y'all say "set screw", are you just screwing something into the end of the rubber boot that covers the plunger?

 

That's what I was asking, if the switch and plunger/boot are all one piece and this is why people are just putting in the set screw. Or, can you just buy the new rubber boot and plunger ?


Thanks,

Christian

 

so you put the zip tie in to hold the lever in a bit taking the tension off the switch or what? im gonna change my grips this weekend

 

Yes, exactly.

 

Broke mine when I was putting on new grips. Didn't know the shim in the brake lever trick. I just used epoxy and glued a small piece of plastic to the end of the plunger - worked fine - hope it holds. Anyone else fix it this way??

 

I cut one of those black adhesive security tags that you see on DVDs in half and stuck it on the back of the lever. Works fine.

 

But instead of rtv I used JB weld that was a year ago or so and it still is working fine. My issue is with the bushing in teh bake handle pivot joint i think. Light stays on unless i let the handle "pop" back out.

 

I have to laugh. After reading posts before this was started about the brake light switch I took my bike to the dealer to let "the professionals" replace the grips, and not wanting to be in the "Broken brake light switch club" I said for $35. So the tech puts a plastic wedge in the handgrip to protect the light switch. I ride the bike home and less than a mile from the dealer the front brake locks up good thing I was only going about 20mph there was a lot of traffic I pulled over the side of the road and called the dealer they were sending a tow truck Then I looked, and low and behold said "Tech" didnt remove the wedge in the front handbrake thats why they locked up!! Called the dealer and was able to ride back and gave em a piece of my ming, along with the wedge back! The tech and the service manager came running out when I pulled up were apologizing, almost begging for forgiveness! So boys and girls thats what happens when you leave the job to the "Professionals"!!!!!
LOL I guesss anyone can have a bad day, or totally screw up!!
BV