I am installing SE tapered adjustable pushrods on my Ultra Classic. The issue I have is when do I start counting the turns. I extended the adjustable pushrod until it made contact with the lifter and until there was no up and down play but where I could still turn it by had. I then extended the pushrod 2.5 turns. After doing so, I could still turn the pushrod with my fingers...it just felt too loose. So, I turned it some more until I felt significant resistence and couldn't turn it anymore by hand. From this point, I went 2.5 turns and each turn had strong resistance (assuming that is the valve springs pushing against the push rod). After about 2 hours they have still not bled down and I still can't turn them with my fingers. What I am doing wrong here!?

 

back them off and the lifter will pump back up (there is a spring inside) make sure the top part of the pr is in the rocker arm cup and extend the pr until the bottom is in the lifter cup and adjust until there is no up and down movement and then do the 2.5-3 turns.

 

Are the seated correctly?

 

well hey -
Did you set the front cylinder at TDC 'before' you started on that set of rods? (both lifters should be at their lowest point - even with the case). And of course the back at TDC as well.

If you did - how long did you wait before you tried to turn them? If you waited more than 10 min, they have bled down and will turn easily.

Now for specifics -
How many miles are on you ride?
Why did you install adjustable pushrods?
...gene

 

If you're not going to be in the cam chest on a regular basis, why adjustables?

 

He could have several reasons for going to adjustables.

1. changed cams with no head/piston work...easier to cut stocks out and install adjustables instead of taking top end apart
2. he could have installed new cam shoes...see above for why
3. he could have changed lifters
4. he could have installed a cam with a higher lift which would require adjustables or custom made pushrods

 

I'm wondering if you installed new lifters also. Sounds to me that the lifters had no oil in them. When you felt the strong resistance, it was most likely the springs on the valves compressing. I would loosen them completely again, and do it correctly ONE TIME! Do not go beyond that. Just be sure as was stated that you have the cylinders at TDC.

If you aren't comfortable with how it feels, then pull the tappet blocks and take the lifters out. Emerse the lifters in a bowl or can of oil, and depress the lifters with a pushrod (maybe one of the old ones) until you work the air out. Most people simply soak the lifters for at least a half hour or over night. I like to physically operate the lifters emersed in oil. You will see the oil being pushed out when they are filled. Then if it still feels odd after that, you are over thinking it.

 

Thanks for all the responses.

After I wrote the post last night, I removed the push rods and am going to start over today. I believe CROK was correct in what happened. I assumed the lifters came "charged" and just installed them right out of the box. So, I am guessig there was no oil in them which is why no matter how many turns I went on the pushrod, I could still rotate the pushrod with my fingers (the only resistance in the lifter was the plunger spring since there was no oil in them). Once I bottomed out the lifter, I then felt resistance from the valve springs. So, I am going to charge the lifters with oil and try again.

I am installing a TMAN 95" build so that is why I am installing new lifters and adjustable pushrods.

 

You dont have to remove the lifters and fill them with oil. Although over the years the manual has said to soak them in oil, they can be installed and adjusted dry. S&S used to show a wet and dry adjustment in their manuals, and I believe the older Harley manuals also had a dry adjustment from back when Harleys came with adjustable pushrods. I've been installing dry for over 20 years, and I know dealer wenches that do also. The important thing to remember is to oil the roller before you install. Personally, I prefer dry because it is easier and quicker, and there is no issue with waiting for them to bleed down before turning the engine over.

 

Great. I was wondering if I had to remove them and soak/fill with oil. I guess I'll just have to be very careful on the adjustment since I won't have as much resistance. So, if I install them dry, then I may be able to rotate the push rods with my fingers once I hit 2.5 to 3 turns, correct?