Once again, I would like to point out that this is not a Road Glide only issue. It can happen to any heavy bike.

As an example, if you look at early GoldWings ( I use the early 80's Interstate and Aspencade as an example) and look on the forks behind the fairing, you will see a bigass chunk of iron, that looks like it weighs a lot.

Guess what that chunk of iron is for.

Some bikes also have a steering stabilizer ........ why do you think that is?

 

Yup, brand new RGU I rode had something going on. Not a wobble. hard to explain. That thing really tracked on the rain grooves.
I was just not impressed in the least with that thing. Or those E3 tires.

On the wobble note, my orig frt tire on the Heritage had a slight wobble at about 45 mph (very slight)
But now I can let go of the handlebars at any speed and it is rock solid.

 

I don't think the new RGU comes with E3s Same old 408 and 407

 

They had the V shaped tread.

But, in all fairness, I'd have to give the bike a better shakedown.
Like for a whole day. I headed right out on the freeway in heavy traffic. I mean we were moving, but just not the best circumstances for a test ride.
Obviously, it's apples & oranges compared to what I'm used to.


The day I borrowed my friend's 06 Ultra, I was WAY more comfortable on the way home.

 

You mean this tread? This is the stock tires on an ultra. And they are really good at not grabbing rain grooves.




You're right a quick little ride is not enough. You need to spend enough time that you can anticipate the bike. They ride totally different than your Heritage.

 

Well just don't do that. Where do I send my bill?

 

There has been some postings regarding front wheel bearing problems...and there is a dealer notice to check the bearings...

There is a service bulletin on the bearings and another about the neck not being properly torqued...

Ask the stealership..

 

Folks a fella called Lone Grey posted the following some time ago, hope it's ok to copy and paste. This the best advice I be seeing on this subjec, TIRE PRESSURE is STEP 1!!!



* #132 * *
02-29-2012, 10:14 PM

LoneGrey
Hang Around
Garage is empty, add now
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chantilly VA
Posts: 9
Wobble Fixes in order of effort or expense:
All of these have fixed other riders wobble issues. Some required only one item, others had to apply a two or more. Do one at a time, road test it, then decide if you need to do more.


1. Adjust tire pressure to max spec
2. Adjust air shock pressure to max spec
3. Check for and tighten loose spokes (for those that have laced wheels)
4. Adjust steering head torque (this is the fall-away test--for RG, it’s 1 to 1.5 swings max)
5. Align the bike: swing arm shaft to rear wheel axle, then rear wheel to front wheel *
6. Increase torque on swing arm shaft nuts
7. R&R fork oil [follow service manual but use type SE Heavy duty 15 wt].
8. R&R front lower motor mount
9. Test swing arm for lateral movement (you need a bike lift to do this). If seems excessive, remove and replace (R&R) Swing Arm rubber bushings; and maybe the bearings too if worn and out of spec

10. Install swing arm stabilizer kit -- choices (sorted by cost as of Feb 2012):
a. Sta-Bo $100-$230 (somewhat similar to the Glide Pro but motor mount xtra and may allow grreater engine vibration translation to frame)
b. Progressive Touring Biker Brace Stabilizer $200
c. Ride-Str8 $260
d. Ultra Ride $260
e. Bagger-Brace $290
f. TRW Missing Link $375
g. Glide Pro $390 (includes front motor mount--no increase in frame vibration)
h. RevTech $400
i. True-Track $400

11. R&R front and rear tires with a matched set. CAUTION: BIAS VS RADIAL: Bias and radial tires have significantly different dynamic properties. They deflect differently, create different cornering forces, have different damping characteristics, as well as other differences. In order for radial tires to be introduced into the two-wheel market, it was necessary to change certain characteristics of the motorcycle. The introduction of the radial tire led to such things as modified frames, new steering geometries and suspensions. Therefore, it is recommended that a motorcycle use the type of tire it originally came with. If a change is to be made, it should only be done if the motorcycle or tire manufacturer has approved the change. Above all, do not mix bias ply and radial tires without the approval of the motorcycle or tire manufacturer.

12. Trade your scooter in, but road test the new one first!

* Refer to service manual; make a “non-flexible” alignment tool (coat hanger wire is not it); and use 8 ft flourescent lamp tubes (not 2x4s). Note that front and wheel center line tracks are typically offest by ź inch or more. You can tweak your alignment to counteract this offset and the center of gravity based on how your bike may to drift left or right (usually to the left) by adjusting the rear wheel axle alignment ever so slightly. The only way to know how much is tweak 1/3 to 2/3 nut rotation at a time, road test, and repeat as until your bike tracks true.


The Road Test:
On a straight, FLAT (not crowned) road where there’s little to no traffic and plenty of room for the oh *****, momentarily ride hands free at 30, then 40, 50, etc. The bike should track straight and not drift left or right. If it drifts, it’s alignment or weight balance is off. Correct these and try again until the bike tracks straight.
Accel then decel from various speeds between 30 to 50 or 60 and back down. Your scoot should feel stable. It will vibrate more or less of certain speeds, this is normal, but it’s steering or tendency to want to wobble should not be here. If it is, make adjustments per the wobble fixes above, one at a time.
Cruise straight at 40, 50, 60, 70. At each speed, induce an ever so slight left-right wiggle into the handle bars, then relax your grip (do not let go completely). Your scoot should wiggle in response to your input but should not feel like it wants to increase in amplitude or get worse on it’s own. If it does, one or more of the fixes above should solve this.
Final Road Test -- The Sweeper. This is the spooky one and don’t do it until results above show your bike is stable and all speeds you normally ride. Find a long, wide (preferably two lane) sweeping left or right curve that you can take at 60+ with the bike laid over to hold the curve. You will need lots of room on either side in case you need drift out of the tightness of the curve to recover (e.g., second or breakdown lane and with a wide clear area off that [no guard rail, poles, trees or other stationary objects that will bust you in-half if you loose it]). Take the curve on the inside as smooth as possible on the first run. If no evidence of wobble and your scooter feels stable, do it again but this time, about half way through, wiggle the handle bars a tiny bit to induce a wobble. The bike will wiggle from front to back in response to your input but should do nothing more. It should stop when you stop. If it bike’s response (magnitude of wiggle or wobble) is greater than your input, or keeps wiggling / wobbling after you stop, then there’s too much free play in the tires (pressure too low, side wall weak, mismatched set); air shock pressure low; spokes loose; bearings loose or out of spec (steering or swing arm); loose or worn out motor mount or rubber bushings (swing arm); or you have a unique case; e.g., bad frame (I’ve seen one case of this and was covered by warranty).
__________________
99 FLTR Black RG, Stage I, Rinehart TD's, RK Seat, Elite 3's
Last edited by LoneGrey; 03-01-2012 at 09:49 AM.

 

I just took my 2012 RGU in for this wobble, dealer just called, they are ordering a new front wheel for it, seems excessive for a 40-45MPH wobble but hey if thats what they want to do more power to them.

 

I had my front tire replaced and it corrected the wobble for about 2,000 miles but it's coming back now. I guess I'll just live with it.