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Engine Upgrades - If you could do it over again?

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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 06:40 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by smokindave
If you look at my signature with the motor specs, I did all that and more for $2,700. I would suggest a 95" with SE 204 cams and a PC-III. I had that on my RK and that scoot would pull really good numbers. NO, on the crate motor.

so what did you end up with numbers wise? did you have your tb modded or replaced?
I take it you also didnt have to ship your parts?
 

Last edited by ryanl; Mar 13, 2010 at 06:43 AM.
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 07:01 AM
  #12  
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if i had to do it over again i would have waited one more riding season and gone BIG. 130 inches or more.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 07:52 AM
  #13  
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My local wrench really likes to do cams and headwork before changing the bore.

My 2000 injection experience was not not all that positive so that may end up being an issue for you. (I had to recalibrate the idle about every 2000 miles, Then mechanical idle screw would wear and the idle would change and that would throw the map settings off and the bike would begin decel poppin' like crazy. Easy to adjust, using a powercommander, but had to be done.

You may want to visit with Jamie at Fuel Moto for his input on a build.

Good luck! I personally love messing around with these bikes....when it is too slick to ride that is...
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 08:57 AM
  #14  
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If you want to improve performance I strongly recommend finding a local engine builder and talk to him in person. You can talk through what you want to achieve and he should ensure you get the best out of your bike.

There comes a time when the cost of tuning mods can start getting close to a new motor, but frankly El Bruto have reliability issues and I wouldn't buy one. Some of the dealers here on HDF pull them apart to put known faults right before putting them in the bike. I bought an S&S instead! Northside has the right suggestion above - you can guess which option I would choose!
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 09:53 AM
  #15  
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Here's what I did with a 2000 TC88, yes it's also got the magnetti morelli EFI, which btw is very similar to that used on Ducatis.

OEM stock heads - sent to GMR and ported with s/s valves, Springs and collars
98" Millenium Nikisil Cylinders
Wiseco 10.5 Forged Moly Coated Pistons
1.675 Ratio Rockers
OEM Oil Pump
OEM Cam Plate
S&S Cam Gear Drive
S&S Outer Gear Drive
Woods Gear Drive Cam .575 lift (#5 I Believe) set to stock specs
Adjustable push rods (I forget which ones I went with)
cases were updated to new LH Bearing/
Cam drive updated to new bearings
rocker boxes clearanced for ratio rockers
Crank straightened to within .0015 runout
PCIII usb with custom map.

Only labor charges I had were from GMR for the head work, and for dyno time with custom mapping. Everything else was just parts and downtime. This gave me a very respectable 108 lb-ft of torque with a very flat torque curve and usable torque from right off idle, and 89 peak HP, on 91 octane. This motor was not built or intended to rev into the stratosphere, thus the more modest HP peak number. But it will pull tree stumps, get out of its own way, and pass with ease on the highway.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 09:58 AM
  #16  
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Thanks for all the replies. I have learned a lot. I'm out on the crate motor. It sounds too extreme and too much money for a twin cam. I went too far with mods to a diesel truck once and swore I would never do something like that again. I am in no hurry, so I will look for a local engine builder and pick his brain.

Right now, it seems like a mild build like Bodean46 has would be right for me. The cam would be the only big cost and the rest I can get gradually without my wife killing me. Thanks again.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 10:05 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Eyespy
Here's what I did with a 2000 TC88, yes it's also got the magnetti morelli EFI, which btw is very similar to that used on Ducatis.

OEM stock heads - sent to GMR and ported with s/s valves, Springs and collars
98" Millenium Nikisil Cylinders
Wiseco 10.5 Forged Moly Coated Pistons
1.675 Ratio Rockers
OEM Oil Pump
OEM Cam Plate
S&S Cam Gear Drive
S&S Outer Gear Drive
Woods Gear Drive Cam .575 lift (#5 I Believe) set to stock specs
Adjustable push rods (I forget which ones I went with)
cases were updated to new LH Bearing/
Cam drive updated to new bearings
rocker boxes clearanced for ratio rockers
Crank straightened to within .0015 runout
PCIII usb with custom map.

Only labor charges I had were from GMR for the head work, and for dyno time with custom mapping. Everything else was just parts and downtime. This gave me a very respectable 108 lb-ft of torque with a very flat torque curve and usable torque from right off idle, and 89 peak HP, on 91 octane. This motor was not built or intended to rev into the stratosphere, thus the more modest HP peak number. But it will pull tree stumps, get out of its own way, and pass with ease on the highway.
Eyespy,

What exhaust do have? Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 03:21 PM
  #18  
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I just ordered a 2010 Street Glide from my local shop here in Canada. I decided to get some work done on the engine right away. I went with the 103 kit - 1690 Stage 2 Race with the SE Stage 1 A/C 50mm & EFI Super Tuner S.E. Pro. This kit comes with the upgraded cam as well.

Kitchener Harley Davidson is doing the work for me as soon as the bike comes in & I'm hopping it's all ready to go by April 1st.

I have an '01 Deuce that just had a power commander, Kuryakyn Hyper charger & Vance & Hines Longshots - that machine was a rocket - I loved surprising the **** out of some of the crotch rockets when they thought they'd leave me standing at a light. I'm gonna miss that ride but I'm really looking forward to a little more comfort & support for this old man's mostly screwed up back.
 
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