Help adjusting the clutch
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 285
From: Edmond Oklahoma
Help adjusting the clutch
First off, I know the Maintenance Manual police are looking on and let me just say that it sucks. By far the personal advice on the forum is much better.
Now, I change to ATF fluid in the primary a few weeks ago and I really like the feel of the clutch much better. However my clutch slips when I get around 3000 rpms taking off mildly agressive from a stop. I read on this forum to first check the clutch adjustment, so I did that. During the adjustment, I ended up with the adjustment screw turned in one full turn more than what Harley had adjusted it. After the adjustment, My clutch lets off a little farther from the grip, which I don't think I want. So it stands to reason that I need to turn the screw back (counter clockwise) to get the clutch to engage closer to the grip and insure its fully engaged. Should I turn it maybe a full turn and a half?
I understand the risk on the other side is not fully disengaging the clutch if I go to far counter clockwise. I'm just checking with you experienced guys that my logic is sound, because as I said, the manual sure isn't a help.
Thanks a head for any help and advice.
Beary
Now, I change to ATF fluid in the primary a few weeks ago and I really like the feel of the clutch much better. However my clutch slips when I get around 3000 rpms taking off mildly agressive from a stop. I read on this forum to first check the clutch adjustment, so I did that. During the adjustment, I ended up with the adjustment screw turned in one full turn more than what Harley had adjusted it. After the adjustment, My clutch lets off a little farther from the grip, which I don't think I want. So it stands to reason that I need to turn the screw back (counter clockwise) to get the clutch to engage closer to the grip and insure its fully engaged. Should I turn it maybe a full turn and a half?
I understand the risk on the other side is not fully disengaging the clutch if I go to far counter clockwise. I'm just checking with you experienced guys that my logic is sound, because as I said, the manual sure isn't a help.
Thanks a head for any help and advice.
Beary
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,559
Likes: 3,955
From: Vermont
Here's where I like my clutch:
I loosen the lock nut and then bottom out the adjuster until I just feel resistance. I do this 2-3 times so I know how it feels bottoming out. I then back it off 1/2 turn and then tighten the lock nut back up. Then I move to the cable and I use a nickel for a spacer to indicate how far I can pull the cable ferrule away from the perch. When I do it this way it puts it right where I like it.
I loosen the lock nut and then bottom out the adjuster until I just feel resistance. I do this 2-3 times so I know how it feels bottoming out. I then back it off 1/2 turn and then tighten the lock nut back up. Then I move to the cable and I use a nickel for a spacer to indicate how far I can pull the cable ferrule away from the perch. When I do it this way it puts it right where I like it.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,389
Likes: 26
From: Windham,Maine
Here's where I like my clutch:
I loosen the lock nut and then bottom out the adjuster until I just feel resistance. I do this 2-3 times so I know how it feels bottoming out. I then back it off 1/2 turn and then tighten the lock nut back up. Then I move to the cable and I use a nickel for a spacer to indicate how far I can pull the cable ferrule away from the perch. When I do it this way it puts it right where I like it.
I loosen the lock nut and then bottom out the adjuster until I just feel resistance. I do this 2-3 times so I know how it feels bottoming out. I then back it off 1/2 turn and then tighten the lock nut back up. Then I move to the cable and I use a nickel for a spacer to indicate how far I can pull the cable ferrule away from the perch. When I do it this way it puts it right where I like it.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,323
Likes: 37
From: NJ
Clutch throw
Here's where I like my clutch:
I loosen the lock nut and then bottom out the adjuster until I just feel resistance. I do this 2-3 times so I know how it feels bottoming out. I then back it off 1/2 turn and then tighten the lock nut back up. Then I move to the cable and I use a nickel for a spacer to indicate how far I can pull the cable ferrule away from the perch. When I do it this way it puts it right where I like it.
I loosen the lock nut and then bottom out the adjuster until I just feel resistance. I do this 2-3 times so I know how it feels bottoming out. I then back it off 1/2 turn and then tighten the lock nut back up. Then I move to the cable and I use a nickel for a spacer to indicate how far I can pull the cable ferrule away from the perch. When I do it this way it puts it right where I like it.
Dawg...how ya been...? Hey where does your clutch lever start to grab?
When I first got the bike she would grab early about 1 inch after releasing the lever....
Now a days she aint grabbing until the lever is about half way through it's full engaged position. (letting the lever go)
I know how to take clutch play out of the cable but I get lost technicially understanding when is the right time to go into the primary case and loosening the nut and turning the screw inside the primary case ....
When do you know you should go inside the primary case for sure?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,803
Likes: 11
From: El Paso, Texas
Here's where I like my clutch:
I loosen the lock nut and then bottom out the adjuster until I just feel resistance. I do this 2-3 times so I know how it feels bottoming out. I then back it off 1/2 turn and then tighten the lock nut back up. Then I move to the cable and I use a nickel for a spacer to indicate how far I can pull the cable ferrule away from the perch. When I do it this way it puts it right where I like it.
I loosen the lock nut and then bottom out the adjuster until I just feel resistance. I do this 2-3 times so I know how it feels bottoming out. I then back it off 1/2 turn and then tighten the lock nut back up. Then I move to the cable and I use a nickel for a spacer to indicate how far I can pull the cable ferrule away from the perch. When I do it this way it puts it right where I like it.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,780
Likes: 69
From: Al Bu Ker Key, New Mexico
My favorite torment! Clutch adjustment! Still dont seem to be able to do it correctly. Question for you all. My new 2010 Streetglide has the hydraulic clutch whereas my 1999 FXR2 does not. Is there any difference in the methods used to adjust the clutch on one from the other? That is, any difference since one is hydraulic and one is not? I am thinking not.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,559
Likes: 3,955
From: Vermont
Dawg...how ya been...? Hey where does your clutch lever start to grab?
When I first got the bike she would grab early about 1 inch after releasing the lever....
Now a days she aint grabbing until the lever is about half way through it's full engaged position. (letting the lever go)
I know how to take clutch play out of the cable but I get lost technicially understanding when is the right time to go into the primary case and loosening the nut and turning the screw inside the primary case ....
When do you know you should go inside the primary case for sure?
When I first got the bike she would grab early about 1 inch after releasing the lever....
Now a days she aint grabbing until the lever is about half way through it's full engaged position. (letting the lever go)
I know how to take clutch play out of the cable but I get lost technicially understanding when is the right time to go into the primary case and loosening the nut and turning the screw inside the primary case ....
When do you know you should go inside the primary case for sure?
Trending Topics
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,323
Likes: 37
From: NJ
cable
My lever grabs just slightly off the perch, great for friction zone riding in traffic. The answer as to when you need to go in the primary is quite vague....pretty much when you feel it needs it, want to change where the adjustment is now, or you do work on something else like replacing a cable that warrants it.
I'm a bit bothered by how far my throw is getting outward before grabbing...
My cable "adjustment is fine" (no slop) to speak of but the throw distance I'd like to reel it in a bit......
Last edited by Gliden; Mar 26, 2010 at 01:03 PM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,559
Likes: 3,955
From: Vermont
Cables do stretch after being new, hence the 1k adjustment. The adjustment is to be done when cold. You should check by pulling the cable as hard as you can out of the perch. You might find that it can be pulled farther than it should be. Then adjust the cable and see if that helps.
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 253
Likes: 1
From: New Hampshire
Not to hi-jack your thread but I'm replacing my clutch cable with a longer one because I got different handlebars. I only have 3000 miles on the bike (09 RG) and the clutch has worked great. Should I be able to swap out the cable and just adjust it, or will I need to adjust the clutch too? Thanks