Just put Reinhart True duals, Big sucker kit and PC-V on my 2010 Road King. Went for a ride and nailed it. In 1st and 2nd gear it seemed to kit the rev limiter in nothing flat. Throttle travel was about a quarter of the way into it and it just fell on it's face. Never really got into it before the change because I knew it was a pig so why bother. Has anyone heard of this before? Same setup on my 2007 and it was fine. This truely sucks!

 

Cruising at peak torque (or just below) will get you max mpg, shifting at peak hp will get you max acceleration.

I don't know what the torque/hp curves look like on a stocker (or a "stage 1" whateverthe****thatis) but if the hp starts dropping off at 5250, there's no sense going higher (especially with a 6-spd)

 

There's a rev extender option on the PCV to bump it to 6200, but I'm not sure it's needed with stock heads/cams/compression/valve springs

 

Yes you are hitting the rev limiter. It actually starts cutting out around 5075 RPM. It's not dumping compression, it's designed to actually cut off every other firing cycle keeping the engine from over revving over 5200 RPM.

You can get a stage one download to extend the rev cut off to around 6200 RPM. Why would want to rev a two cylinder stock Harley to 6200? These bikes are not designed for high RPM. You gain nothing, over around 4800 RPM on a stock Harley.

 

To each his own I guess. First off, there is no reason at all why a person shouldn't use all the revs available in their bike, the pushrods don't really care, up to a point. It's about riding style and preferences, thats all. Some folks like to cruise along at a calm pace enjoying the scenery. I think thats great and I do that sometimes. Other folks like to thrash the snot out of their bikes and thats great. I also do that sometimes too.
There are a great many misunderstandings about torque and horsepower and how they relate to each other. Remember, horsepower is only a derived calculation based on torque numbers. To suggest that there is no point or benefit in revving beyond peak torque is missing the point. As the point of maximum torque is passed, the bike still continues to accelerate, just not as quickly. Revs transmitted through the gearbox and drive train are still climbing and therefore making the rear wheel spin faster.
Just ride your bike the way you like riding and it'll all work out.

 

Don't really run it that hard. But when I need to get out of a jam or into traffic and I don't have the Go-Nads under me I could be in serious trouble. I think it could just be the way the Drive-By-Wire is set up from the factory. If it is....it sucks.

 

I have a Stage 1, 103" with S&S 510G cams, and I hit the rev limiter twice today when I fully opened the throttle in first and second in my haste to get out of the way of an out of control SUV bearing down on me. It is amazing how quickly I can run the engine up to the 6,200 rpm limit with my setup. You can lose a lot of speed and time if you crank the throttle to full open beyond the rev limit.

 

Well for those of you questioning why you would want to push a harley past 5000 RPM, I can tell you that the rev limiter almost got me killed today. I was cruising home from work only doing the 45MPH speed limit when a car pulled out in front of me from the left side of the road. The quick check of things around said if I went left I would be eating the grill of an f250, go right and slap a guard rail, Grab a hand full of brake and if I didn't start to slide out I would get rear ended or downshift move a little bit right and speed past him.

I chose number four, and then found out that my new street glide has a rev limiter. I was able to squeeze as close as possible to the guard rail and could have reached out and put my hand on the hood of that car.

Which was a nice surprise after I found out this morning on the way in that I can not get my speed past 85. Another good thing to find out in traffic, and another reason to return the bike to the dealer. My safety is a little more important than a pushrod.