My last two bikes I paid for all the motor work but was present to watch it all go down. After a handlebar swap and exhaust swap last week and a rocker/box swap awhile back, I am actually looking forward to doing my cams myself next week as soon as the rest of the parts and tools arrive. I have read the write ups mentioned above a couple of times, pretty confident I can do the job with minimal help. wish me luck!
If you can remove the stock touring exhaust, I'm thinking you can do it. What a royal PITA! Hadn't removed one in about 7 years and forgot what a joy it is, NOT! Propipe goes off and on in about 20 minutes...

 

Because the timing marks on the cams and gears are for getting the cam timing correct only. The dots on the cams should be pointing toward each other at the same time the dots on the cam/crank sprockets point at each other. If they aren't lined up, the sprockets will not fit on the ends of the cam and crank input shafts. The real way to get cam timing off is between the cams, i.e. the dots on the cam sprockets are not lined correctly.

There really is too much emphasis on TCD. Dots on the cams and their respective sprockets don't tell you when either cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. Some engineer years ago picked a crankshaft position and marked everything with a dot so the timing wouldn't be off during reassembly. You have to look at the lifters and pay attention to make sure they are on the base circle of the cam before attempting to adjust pushrods (if you aren't re-using the stock ones). This does happen during the compression stroke for several degrees, not just at TDC. Lifters will be on the base circle of the cam during most of the compression stroke so pushrod adjustment can happen at any crank position during that event.

 

With the proper tools, a service manual and the HDForums you will be fine. Jump in and do it. I would rate it as a 3. Piece of cake.

 

Sure you can probably do it with the correct tools needed. If you have some mechanical inclination and can follow the service manual. I'd say 3-5, and that depends on your level of mechanics, every one is different. I can do mine, pulling rocker covers and reusing stock rods in between 5-6 hrs. ready to ride again. I've done 2, 08 streetglides. I have alot of tools and a lift. So if you have saturday free, you can most likely do it if you have all your parts.

 

iclick had a great write up on installing cams in a late model twin cam like yours. the only obstacle could be the cost of some of the required tools for the job.

 

The only special tool you should need to buy is a inner-cam-bearing puller/installer, and the one I bought was <$100.
Auto Zone will lend you a blind-hole puller free with a deposit that some have used successfully, but I haven't tried them myself. The alignment and sprocket-locking tools specified in the service manual aren't necessary.

 

07RoadHawg: thanks for your reply. Here is my problem. I installed Andrews54h cams in my 07 FLHP; The mechanical aspect of the cam swap (as had been said) was relatively easy. Yes, pulling the exhaust was somewhat annoying. Bought the appropriate bearing puller from George's and scored a Jims TC bearing installer off of flea bay. The mechanical aspect of the swap was simple and straightforward (for the OP). I had the cam to cam timing marks lined up and the cam drive gear to crank gear timing marks lined up. Couldn't go smoother. As I had been informed, the 54h cam gears are ground on a smaller base circle so I used SE perfect fit +.030 pushrods. I spoke with a tech from Andrews (very helpful) and he said that people are using stock pushrods. He did recommend adjustable pushrods, the perfect fits were personal choice. Nothing more. Also installed roller tip rockers. Once again, personal choice).
Sooooo....everything is going back together and I am thinking life is good. Get the engine buttoned up, hang the pipes, put the tank back on. Hook the battery back up...with plugs out, I spin the engine to build oil pressure. Engine spins freely. Watch the oil pressure light and it goes out. No "bad noises". Things seem to be going well. Put the plugs back in, hook the fuel pump back up. Some fresh gas. Cycle the engine. Fuel pump kicks on like it always has. Spin the engine. Spins freely. No bad noises. No start.
Stop. Cycle the fuel pump and give it another try. No start. WTF? Squirt some ether in the Throttle body. Hit starter. Engine spins. No start. No cough or sputter like it wants to start. I pull the wire off the front plug. Put a spare plug in and gound it. Hit the starter. No spark. Same on the rear. No spark. None. Everything else on the bike works perfectly. Lights. Camera. No action. No I did not switch the plug wires. So...I am thinking the coil took a dump. I have never seen a coil fail on anything. But it is a Harley. Last Saturday I drove 200 miles to the dealer not in my town. They test the coil and tell me.."tain't the coil....crank position sensor". So I buy a CKP. GEt home. Install the thing. No start. Now...before you poke me in the pooper, I did run the codes. These are the codes: P 0374 CKP sensor sync error; P 1351 front ignition coil open/low efi;
P 1354 rear ignition coil open/ low efi. Then it gives me part numbers. Interstingly the part numbers shown are my speedo head, my factory tach, turn signal and a mystery number (34448-07) which I cannot track down. OK...I neglected to tell the mechanic my codes because I forgot when I ran out the house. Regardless....here is where I am at.
I am certain that the mechanical aspect of the swap is good (OP...it really is not that bad)....but what the hell did I do??? All my fuses are good. I admit to not having specifically checked the grounds, but everything else works so I discount that. I am living in fear that I have **** the ECU. Don't know how I would have done that. But I honestly cannot think of anything else, yet there is not a code (assuming there is one)to suggest that the ECU took a dump. Soooooo......I have scoured every HD website out there and cannot find word one that suggests somebody else has been down this road. To the OP, do not be intimidated by doing the swap. I am looking for some help/insight/etc. I have 780# lawn ornament eating up space in my garage. I have looked over the wiring and cannot find any evidence that I pinched/broke/cut a wire. I only disconnected the needed connectors. I did disconnect the battery prior to starting this journey. Before I trailer the bike I am desperately seeking any input/insight that anybody has had. Sorry about the length of this but I am my wits end. Thanks in advance. Don't be afraid to post or PM. I am willing to listen to anybody/anything. I am tired of being in the car. What did I do wrong? Also, I do have power to the coil.

 

These are the posts that give me nighmares . I'll be tearing my motor apart in the fall. There's another thread about a guy who had bad timing marks on his cams. His bike is still dead in the water.

I'm subscribing to this just to hear the outcome.

BTW, you should cut and paste your post into your own thread. I think others here would be interested in keeping up on this. Just a strong suggestion rather than hijacking this guys thread.
Steve

 

I am the other guy with the bad timing marks but even all of the problems I have had the job is really not that hard I even started by pulling the rockers like iclick did to keep the stock pushrods. I would suggest plan on going with the tappered adjustable push rods for sure although had it owrked out the first time things would have been good. It is about another couple of hours doing the top end. Just if you get SE255 cams make sure the timing mark on the splined cam is on the 6th valley clockwise of the large cog that aligns the cam gear NOT THE 4TH like mine was. I appearantly had some valve issue also went I put her away I am hoping.I will let my thread followers know more when I get my head back later this week.

Go fo it just get Atrains and iclicks write ups and read the manual over and over before you start and really remember how you took thing apart lable ect. It is not that bad I just took one for the team on mine no one had mentioned the bad timing marks in any of the thread I read and only a couple of guys new about when I had the issue looking for help. You have more support here than you can ever imagine! When I was in trouble at first Dawg and PhilM talked to me on the phone even

 

I prefaced in an earlier post that I was not intent on hijacking this thread. See #12 above. I had already posted my question in the electrical/ecm section. All I got was somebody asking me if I had screwed up something electrical in the nosecone. That was a couple of weeks ago. Its a twin cam. Not an Evo. As an aside I did a cam swap on my Evo years ago. Ran first time everytime. I have posted on this thread seeking help and hopefully helping somebody avoid my mistake (whatever that might have been) on their initial TC cam swap. It is all about learning. you be careful out there. I am still seeking help. Once again, to the OP, the mechanical aspect of cam swap is easy. Tools. Shop manual. Avoid my mistake. What ever that is. If that doesn't help you.......pay the wrench to do it. As for hijacking the thread....how many people have to chime in and state that it is easy....it is.