JAGG Oil Cooler
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 897
Likes: 0
From: South-Central Minnesota
RE: JAGG Oil Cooler
you simply remove your engine gaurd and have holes drilled and tapped into the ends of the tubes to accept fittings. Do your best not to introduce metal filings inside the tubes, then use compressed air, and a fluid flush to remove any debris that may have gotten in there. I used Isopropyl alcolhol for its solvent nature and its quick drying to flush out my engine guard. Then run your oil cooler lines from the thermostat (or not if you're so inclined) and you're ready to roll with a super clean oil cooler. Since you have had an oil cooler, you should still have a thermostat you could run your lines from. I tied mine into my oil return line and ran it under the frame to a remote thermostat, then through the guard and back to the oil pan. Less pressure on the oil return side; so less problems with leaks.
Here's what people see, if they look close:
And heres what they see if they look REAL close:
Here's what people see, if they look close:
And heres what they see if they look REAL close:
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 607
Likes: 1
From: JAX Florida
RE: JAGG Oil Cooler
SeaHag, wow just did a search and found this thread. Most very interesting. This time o year, I guessing most of the other riders couldn't give a hoot about oil coolers, but we far south folks are only a few weeks away from cooking time again. By nowyou should have more than a few miles on her in this configuration. Have you encountered any issues or problems. Any problem with lowered oil pressure pushing that much oil up and over the engine guard (crash bar for the politically incorrect).
ORIGINAL: SeaHag
you simply remove your engine gaurd and have holes drilled and tapped into the ends of the tubes to accept fittings. Do your best not to introduce metal filings inside the tubes, then use compressed air, and a fluid flush to remove any debris that may have gotten in there. I used Isopropyl alcolhol for its solvent nature and its quick drying to flush out my engine guard. Then run your oil cooler lines from the thermostat (or not if you're so inclined) and you're ready to roll with a super clean oil cooler. Since you have had an oil cooler, you should still have a thermostat you could run your lines from. I tied mine into my oil return line and ran it under the frame to a remote thermostat, then through the guard and back to the oil pan. Less pressure on the oil return side; so less problems with leaks.
Here's what people see, if they look close:
And heres what they see if they look REAL close:
you simply remove your engine gaurd and have holes drilled and tapped into the ends of the tubes to accept fittings. Do your best not to introduce metal filings inside the tubes, then use compressed air, and a fluid flush to remove any debris that may have gotten in there. I used Isopropyl alcolhol for its solvent nature and its quick drying to flush out my engine guard. Then run your oil cooler lines from the thermostat (or not if you're so inclined) and you're ready to roll with a super clean oil cooler. Since you have had an oil cooler, you should still have a thermostat you could run your lines from. I tied mine into my oil return line and ran it under the frame to a remote thermostat, then through the guard and back to the oil pan. Less pressure on the oil return side; so less problems with leaks.
Here's what people see, if they look close:
And heres what they see if they look REAL close:
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