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No one has awnsered weather or not in advance/denote map I want basic or cylinder or cyclinder. Right now my goal is to change header pipes and to not lose any thing my dyno tune got me after I take a trip in a few weeks I might want to try and inprove perfomace. I am the only H/D in a group of G/W and don't want any performace issues
It would be nice if Dynojet would include a tutorial with the installation software. I'm still flailing around with mine trying to sort out how the trims work, and how to get the whole thing dialed in. The last time I checked my trims, one cylinder had a bunch of 20's, and the other cylinder had a bunch of -20's. I'm not sure how that happened.
After messing around with it for the last couple of weeks, I've only managed to make my bike run worse. I just reinstalled the base map that Fuel Moto originally sent me, and I'll start over.
Take a look at your AT modules...I think you have AT 1 on Cyl 2 and AT2 on Cyl1 ( the AT modules have asmall number on them, very easy to miss). I also change my adjstements to modify the base map by 5% only...
Last edited by luc.who; May 16, 2010 at 05:50 AM.
Reason: to add in about AT modules
I installed my AT tonight as well. Install was easy but how do I know if I am using the FM base map or the Autotune? I plugged into the laptopand it wasnt too clear that I was on AT or map?
Mike the AT will make adjustments to your base map. Sounds like you have a map from FM. That is a great place to start.
1. Make sure you have this map backed up somewhere in case you need to restore it. You may not like the AT adjustments... I back up my maps at google with my email account...that way I can get to them almost anywhere.
2. As the AT makes adjustments, look at the adjustments...you should not see double digit adjustments to FM maps...if you see double digit adjustments, then there is something wrong. I would not accept the trim levels in this case.
If you are using a switch from base map to AT, I am not sure about that set up. I run AT only no switch.
No one has awnsered weather or not in advance/denote map I want basic or cylinder or cyclinder. Right now my goal is to change header pipes and to not lose any thing my dyno tune got me after I take a trip in a few weeks I might want to try and inprove perfomace. I am the only H/D in a group of G/W and don't want any performace issues
In all the adjustments I have made to my AT, I don't recall this setting and I haven't made any changes to this default setting.
call Jamie or Keith at FM, and they will walk you through the process of accepting the trims and then the AT will re-learn and smooth itself out. mine had numerous -20's and was running real rich, accepted the trims, reinstalled, took a 150 mile trip and noticed the bike was running not anywhere near as rich with the same power as before. no pinging, no issues, love the AT.
Don't forget to insert the terminator plug as per the diagram in the instructions. AT won't work without it installed, and double-check that AT module #1 goes to the front cylinder and #2 to the rear.
In all the adjustments I have made to my AT, I don't recall this setting and I haven't made any changes to this default setting.
The advanced setting allows tuning on both cylinders separately, thus there are two tables in each section (Fuel Adj., Target AFR's, Ignition Timing, and Trims). The basic setting gives only one table that affects both cylinders. If you have a basic PCV with no AT you are a slave of your base map, as if it was tuned as basic it will stay that way until you change the setting and the map. If you have AT you should make sure it is set to Advanced and let it auto-tune each cylinder separately.
call Jamie or Keith at FM, and they will walk you through the process of accepting the trims and then the AT will re-learn and smooth itself out. mine had numerous -20's and was running real rich, accepted the trims, reinstalled, took a 150 mile trip and noticed the bike was running not anywhere near as rich with the same power as before. no pinging, no issues, love the AT.
The PCV-AT should have no more trouble running double-digit trims as not. I'm running a base map that's very rich in the cruise range and Target AFR tables that are very lean for better mileage. I have lots of single- and double-digit negative numbers in my cruise range, as expected, and it works fine. When I want good mileage I run in AT mode, then can switch to the rich base-map when I need extra cooling. If you are using the switch for better mileage it is counterproductive to accept trims more than once, which is to establish your rich base map.
I did a write-up on this process here if anyone is interested.
It would be nice if Dynojet would include a tutorial with the installation software. I'm still flailing around with mine trying to sort out how the trims work, and how to get the whole thing dialed in. The last time I checked my trims, one cylinder had a bunch of 20's, and the other cylinder had a bunch of -20's. I'm not sure how that happened.
After messing around with it for the last couple of weeks, I've only managed to make my bike run worse. I just reinstalled the base map that Fuel Moto originally sent me, and I'll start over.
It is not uncommon to see these types of trims and it is important to understand that at trim of 20 would be making a 20% change from that cell in the PC map, not an overall 20% change in the mixture. I would make 100% sure that the AT#1 is going to the front cylinder and the AT#2 is routed to the rear. If you would like to email me your map with the trims I would be happy to take a look at it.
No one has awnsered weather or not in advance/denote map I want basic or cylinder or cyclinder. Right now my goal is to change header pipes and to not lose any thing my dyno tune got me after I take a trip in a few weeks I might want to try and inprove perfomace. I am the only H/D in a group of G/W and don't want any performace issues
You want to make sure the map is advanced for each cylinder. All of our PC-V maps for this bike are advanced maps where the cylinders are tuned seperately.
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