Help help autotune wireing???

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May 16, 2010 | 12:26 PM

#21

SICKBAGGER

Road Master

Joined: Nov 2008

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From: Central Coast CA

Tagging its sitting on my work bench look to to it next week!

May 16, 2010 | 02:01 PM

#22

Mike5959

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Joined: Sep 2008

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From: Boston, MA

Quote:

Originally Posted by iclick

Don't forget to insert the terminator plug as per the diagram in the instructions. AT won't work without it installed, and double-check that AT module #1 goes to the front cylinder and #2 to the rear.

What is the terminator plug? All the lights light up on the modules.

May 16, 2010 | 08:01 PM

#23

oscarg

Thread Starter

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Joined: Oct 2006

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Jamie my dyno maps are differant front to rear so I should set it to cylinder or gear advance . And I have to plugs with my kit they look the same is there a differance
and do I need only one

May 16, 2010 | 08:20 PM

#24

fuelmoto

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Joined: Feb 2007

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From: Little Chute, WI

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike5959

What is the terminator plug? All the lights light up on the modules.

The CAN Termination plug is a black plastic plug which completes the circuit for the CAN network. You need to plug one into the left over/open port on the AT module. You do not need to use the second CAN plug which is provided to support future PC-V accessories if required.

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May 16, 2010 | 08:23 PM

#25

fuelmoto

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From: Little Chute, WI

Quote:

Originally Posted by oscarg

Jamie my dyno maps are differant front to rear so I should set it to cylinder or gear advance . And I have to plugs with my kit they look the same is there a differance
and do I need only one

Just leave it cylinder advanced and you will only use one of the CAN Termination plugs which goes into the left over/open port of the AT module

May 16, 2010 | 09:58 PM

#26

Mike

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Joined: Jun 2009

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From: Centralia, Wa

Quote:

Originally Posted by luc.who

Take a look at your AT modules...I think you have AT 1 on Cyl 2 and AT2 on Cyl1 ( the AT modules have asmall number on them, very easy to miss). I also change my adjstements to modify the base map by 5% only...

I'm wondering why you would think that? They are wired up correctly, btw, ,but am curious why you would suggest that as a problem. If they were wired backwards, would that be a typical scenario?

I'm kind of playing around with it for the next few days, so it really doesn't matter too much. I'm about to swap out cams in the next week, and I'll be changing maps again. In the meantime, I'd like to learn how the autotune works so I can get the bike dialed in quickly.

I'd taken the base map sent along with my PC, I'd ride it for a couple of days, then plug in my laptop. I'd look at the trims, accept them and send the map back to the bike. Ride for a couple of days and do it again. I'd kind of expected the trims to get smaller, but that really didn't happen.

There's got to be a typical procedure to get your bike tuned with the autotune. I imagine it's something like ride for a few miles, varying the throttle positions and rpms. Try to get a couple of full-throttle pulls, and do some varying decelerations. Then plug in your computer, accept the trims, send it back to the bike and do it again. Am I way off on this?

The third time I sent the trims back to the bike, it began to ride worse... popping on part throttle deceleration, mostly. When I checked the trims, like I said, one cylinder had a bunch of -20's, the other had a bunch of +20's. I just went and sent back the initial map, and the popping went away.