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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 01:41 PM
  #21  
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I'm with the crew that is in favor of the vice grips. I doubt easy out will help. If it does not come out and it breaks of with the vice grips and leaves a angle on the remaining bolt and you can not square it up and center punch to start a smaller hole put the cam plate support plate back on and bolt it on snug. Get a drill that fits the bad hole tight in it and drill into the top of the stud about 1/16-1/8 and then change to the heli coil tap drill. You should always check modified threads before going back together with at leas a stud. I check all holes. I have fixed bad threads in Derby covers by simple using studs and acorn nuts.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jun 13, 2010 at 01:44 PM.
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 01:45 PM
  #22  
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Well no offense intended but maybe it's time to call in a professional . . . . Perhaps seek the help of a local indy shop?
 
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 01:54 PM
  #23  
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Got a welder? Put a bigger size nut on & weld it to the stud that is sticking out, the heat may help let the bolt loose & give you something easier to try to spin it out. Good luck

Toby
 
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 02:08 PM
  #24  
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I like this option best also.

Originally Posted by ajayrk
When you helicoil a blind hole the tap may bottom out before the tapered portion is deep enough to allow the helicoil to screw in without going into the tapered area. I always use two helicoil taps and chase the first pass with a tap that the tapered end is ground off.

Drill a small pilot hole in the very center of the bolt all the way through, then drill through that hole with a 1/4" tap drill. I think that would be a #7 drill. Don't cut off the bolt before drilling. The tap drill will leave only the threads in the helicoil. Use the exposed end to carefully pull out the coil of threads.

Once out chase the helicoil threads with a 1/4" tap.

One other thing. With a pilot hole all the way through that is large enough will sometimes allow the bolt to collapse a small amount. Apply a penetrating oil in the hole and try to unscrew the bolt before you core it out with a tap drill.

Another question did you remember to break off the drive tang on the heli-coil after you installed it?
 
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 02:16 PM
  #25  
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Easy Outs are designed for this kind of thing but I always use them as an absolute last resort and even then very reluctantly. Problem is they are hardened steel and can snap fairly easily. If they do snap - especially flush - you are really goosed. Similarely, if you do drill through (which is what I would advocate as has been above) proceed with extreme caution BUT be positive - if drill snaps you are also in trouble

You have done the right thing to walk away and take a blow
 
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 02:42 PM
  #26  
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Vise grips should work on that no problem. You need to get them on TIGHT before you try to back it out. Don't go drilling when you have the stud sticking out and staring you in the face. Use a good set of vise grips not ones made in china.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 02:45 PM
  #27  
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If you have a hammer drill try chucking up to the stud and tighten the **** out of the chuck and slowly try backing it out using the drill.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 03:04 PM
  #28  
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One other tip for the visegrip route is once there on tight try rocking them back and forth to get a little movement and not just go to the loosen mode.
If the threads are locked up due to crossthreading this will help.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 03:06 PM
  #29  
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A previous poster replied with using a smaller pipe wrench. I have had good luck with this method also. Good luck hope all goes well.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 03:08 PM
  #30  
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Other than the one suggestion to weld another nut on, I haven't seen anyone advise to use heat. Propane torch to heat it up and try to back it out. I have a friend that runs his own shop and that's always his standard line "DID YOU USE HEAT ?"
 

Last edited by Harley_RN; Jun 13, 2010 at 03:10 PM.
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