OMG Please help.

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Jun 13, 2010 | 03:28 PM

#31

PA1195

Road Captain

Joined: Apr 2007

Posts: 679

Likes: 120

From: Fairbanks, AK.

I'm a Neub here so won't talk smart, but this stuff does work sometimes: http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com/

Maybe cooling the exposed bolt shank will shrink and loosen it, and the lube help in allowing it to turn.

Gary in Fairbanks

Jun 13, 2010 | 03:39 PM

#32

dirtracin23

Road Warrior

Joined: Aug 2007

Posts: 1,979

Likes: 4

From: Central IL

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajayrk

When you helicoil a blind hole the tap may bottom out before the tapered portion is deep enough to allow the helicoil to screw in without going into the tapered area. I always use two helicoil taps and chase the first pass with a tap that the tapered end is ground off.

Along these lines............... You can buy bottoming taps. They are the same diameter all the way down. I have always liked Keenserts over heli-coils. JMO

Jun 13, 2010 | 03:45 PM

#33

Jackie Paper

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Mar 2010

Posts: 38,300

Likes: 6,325

From: Honah Lee

Slipp

Quote:

Originally Posted by cpotts454

I bought a new set of vice grips and tried them out tp no avail before posting the thread. No matter how tight I get them they want to slip around the bolt threads.

I had a job were someone had used red locktite on some cap screws and the Allen head was rolled around. Easy out just seemed to wedge it in hole when you drove it in and like man said did not want to break it off because it is hard. I drilled the head out till I hit the smaller stud size and got the cover off. Took a file and filed a small flat on one side of the stud for the solid jaw of the 10" vice grip jaw to grab. Most screws came out. I broke two off and they were 5/16-18 studs. I have a small butane torch now. With a flat, vice grip will put more torque then the eazy out. More then the broken bolt will take.

Jun 13, 2010 | 03:48 PM

#34

dawg

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Jun 2006

Posts: 28,473

Likes: 3,950

From: Vermont

Common problem. Most folks replace those two with THESE and then put on some small 12pt nuts. Over on HTT in the swap meet section a bunch of them are selling them as they generally have to buy a whole box and use two and sell the rest.

Jun 13, 2010 | 04:01 PM

#35

xdanman

Tourer

Joined: Apr 2010

Posts: 362

Likes: 0

From: Piedmont,SC

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harley_RN

Other than the one suggestion to weld another nut on, I haven't seen anyone advise to use heat. Propane torch to heat it up and try to back it out. I have a friend that runs his own shop and that's always his standard line "DID YOU USE HEAT ?"

Dont see using heat, the part you are trying to remove does not need to expand more. Besides the surrounding metal is aluminum.

Jun 13, 2010 | 04:03 PM

#36

Arv

Road Captain

Joined: Nov 2009

Posts: 535

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From: Hertfordshire UK

File a flat on the top of stud, centre punch in the middle, drill straight through with pilot drill, then go larger (say 1/4") slide in a 1/4" short piece of bar, so it's just proud both end of of the broken stud, then use your pipe grips of vice grips, you wont need to apply so much pressure and it wont slide round as it will lock onto 1/4" bar, take your time going back and forth until you see movement, then unscrew, maybe spray some wd40 in and around thread before starting.
Take your time...

Jun 13, 2010 | 04:13 PM

#37

merkinman

Advanced

Joined: Jun 2010

Posts: 71

Likes: 0

From: bremerton WA

Clean the threads up as much as you can and spin a good grade nut up onto the broken bolt with two or three threads sticking out. Weld the end of the nut onto the broken bolt. This not only puts another head on the broken bolt but the heat from the welding helps break the resistance. Done this a 100 times and it worked all 100 times.

Jun 13, 2010 | 04:32 PM

#38

VETERAN75

Road Warrior

Joined: Nov 2009

Posts: 1,444

Likes: 1

From: SC

I would think a small pipe wrench or the vise grips should have worked. Since they didn't I'd say the insert is wedged. Maybe you could try to turn it forward and then back, and continue till it is loose. This method may waller the hole out enough to release it. Heating the bolt or the aluminum will not help because of the rate aluminum disperses and dissipates heat, IMO. Welding a nut on may help for gripping and working loose. Last resort should be cutting off existing exposed metal and drilling out. At some point it will let go. Maybe some tapping on the end of the the bolt head with a hammer while turning the grips outward may help break loose also. The best of luck to you.

After you get it out and it's all good again. Make sure you are using a good torque wrench with the proper settings. These torques in this area are inch lbs. And they are small. If your trying to do it with a ratchet by feel, your probably going to tight. When dealing with aluminum it's best to go by the books with the proper tools. Winging it will get you in trouble.