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These are the best type of stud removers on the market and can also be used for installing studs, expensive as sets but they can be purchased individually.
Dropped the bike off at a machine shop today. I actually went to two different ones after the first one wouldnt touch it because of the snapped easy out.
The second shop seemed to feel confident in the removal. Im crossing my fingers and hoping to hear from the guy tomorrow on the results.
Ill keep you posted on what he did, and how much everything cost.
Dropped the bike off at a machine shop today. I actually went to two different ones after the first one wouldnt touch it because of the snapped easy out.
The second shop seemed to feel confident in the removal. Im crossing my fingers and hoping to hear from the guy tomorrow on the results.
Ill keep you posted on what he did, and how much everything cost.
Looking forward to hearing some good news on this one. Fingers crossed.
After all of the great suggestions on how to get it out I can't offer anything else on that. All I can offer is a friendly suggestion to practice a little more cleanliness when working on motors. All the metal particles I'm seeing in the pics scare me and it only takes one small piece to spoil your day.
Just so everyone knows Im still listening... Here is what I did.. step by step.
1. Bought an expensive AMERICAN made vice grips. Wouldnt budge.
2. I taped the bolt again and tried the two nut trick, unfortunately the bolt wasnt long enough for two nuts.
3. Bought a mini pipe wrench. Did just about as good as the vice grips.
4. I cut the stud and drilled a pilot hole, unfortunatly the hole was just a hair out of center, so drilling it completely though wasnt an option.
5. Bought and easy out. Used the hole from above to guide another bigger bit through. The dowel pin started to spin which gave me great hope! Then, the easy out snapped in the hole. Now I have part of a jagged easy out sticking out of the damn thing.
At that point, I called it quits before I do any more damage. I am just going to drop it off at a machine shop that Ive used several times before for engine rebuilds.. Pay the money, and move on. I just hope its not any more expensive then it would have been to pay an Indy to just replace the chain guides. If so, thats just poop tasting icing on the cake!
Thanks again!
-Cory
I've used the expand and contract method with great success, but its always been something froze up or rusted up. Heat the object then melt some ice on it to cool it right quick and stuff comes out.
For the record, I also like the weld a nut on idea and I had a bad feeling that #4 and #5 was gonna happen.
I liked the sugestion of welding a nut on the end. But after that I would use a impact wrench to back it out with. I have a Craftsman 19.2 battery powered and it works good for stuff like that.
Also when drilling out a stud, I like to use the reverse drill bits. Some times the bit will catch and the stud will back out. But,,, some times the drill bit might break,,
I seriously hate the feeling you probably got when it snapped. I've been there many times, just not with a HD motor...any motor you can think of in the landscaping industry tho, i've been there
What jdreed said and I have had good luck with welding a nut too.
If that puppy is that stuck that you can't turn it out with the material that is 'proud' at the moment, it is likely that an EZ out will snap off then your really in the poo. (Ask me how I know this)
I would simply slip a slightly oversize nut as far over the stud as possible and run a weld bead around the stud/nut with a stick or mig welder (1/2 of the nut should be enough).
It should then back right out as you will have the added advantage of heat input on your side plus a real nut to turn a wrench against.
Just a reminder to disconnect your battery prior to striking an arc, and be sure to protect the area around the weld with protective material capped by really wet rags. The wet rags will last long enough for the 5-8 seconds it should take to run the bead.
I snapped off an EZ out once and still managed to weld a nut over the FLUSH stud/EZ out with the weld bead in the id of the nut and backed it out with no weld damage to anything.
I was sweating it though, but it worked fine. PLease be sure and let us know what the machinist did.....
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