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I agree with PA1195 on the locktite freeze and release. Shrinking the bolt is the way to go. A friend and I worked for hours trying to remove a locating pin on a car transmission years ago and finally gave up for the day. The next day he showed up with some electronic component cooler (I don't even know if the EPA allows this stuff any more since it was essentially freon) when it was cooled down, the pin nearly slipped out.
Can you put 2 nuts on it and then use those to back it out? Thread the first nut all the way on, then put a second nut on and tighten it against the first nut. Then put a wrencch on the first nut and back the whole thing out. The second nut should keep the first nut from coming back off of the broken bolt. If you can't fit 2 nuts on there but only one, then I'd thread one on and weld it in place and then use that nut to back the broken bolt out.
Oh no--you can't give up-- you got 30+ people helping you! Give you $100 for the bike? Just kidding. Let us know what they do. They should have no problem fixing it. I've been the machine shop environment 44 years. Even if they tap it over and put a step stud in it it will be cheaper then a 1/2 engine block. I have been working on bikes and car for years and Harleys are the hardest thing yet. Getting them apart is like working on a semi lug nut and putting them back together is like working on a Rolex. Don't loose any sleep over it.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jun 13, 2010 at 06:12 PM.
Just so everyone knows Im still listening... Here is what I did.. step by step.
1. Bought an expensive AMERICAN made vice grips. Wouldnt budge.
2. I taped the bolt again and tried the two nut trick, unfortunately the bolt wasnt long enough for two nuts.
3. Bought a mini pipe wrench. Did just about as good as the vice grips.
4. I cut the stud and drilled a pilot hole, unfortunatly the hole was just a hair out of center, so drilling it completely though wasnt an option.
5. Bought and easy out. Used the hole from above to guide another bigger bit through. The dowel pin started to spin which gave me great hope! Then, the easy out snapped in the hole. Now I have part of a jagged easy out sticking out of the damn thing.
At that point, I called it quits before I do any more damage. I am just going to drop it off at a machine shop that Ive used several times before for engine rebuilds.. Pay the money, and move on. I just hope its not any more expensive then it would have been to pay an Indy to just replace the chain guides. If so, thats just poop tasting icing on the cake!
I called it quits before I do any more damage. I am just going to drop it off at a machine shop that Ive used several times before for engine rebuilds.. Pay the money, and move on.
-Cory
Common problem. Most folks replace those two with THESE and then put on some small 12pt nuts. Over on HTT in the swap meet section a bunch of them are selling them as they generally have to buy a whole box and use two and sell the rest.
I picked up some good tips from this. My son who has the welder and I used the weld one to pull a Blazer oil pan down off the crank that was tapping that someone had bottomed it out on a rock. Welded a stud and screwed on a sliding hammer and a few taps pulled the oil pan off the crank. The cold spray would not work on lock tite which is a pain on a Harley since it is used a lot and I hate heating parts near finishes but the cold appears to work for some. Your quote must be a replacement stud I guess but I can not get your link to work. What are you referring to.
These are the best type of stud removers on the market and can also be used for installing studs, expensive as sets but they can be purchased individually.
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