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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 07:15 PM
  #81  
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Update on the bike. I stopped by the machine shop today to see if he had any luck removing the bolt. He was out of the shop when I stopped by but I went back and checked it out. Looks like he got it out with no problems. I dont know how he removed it yet, but I will update you on that when I get the bike back from him.

I assume he is in the process of making the new studs that I asked him to install in order to fix this once and for all. Im all smiles right now. My wallet might not be when I pick it up... but thats how lessons are learned.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 07:39 PM
  #82  
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Wow, I've been following this and am so glad to hear he got it out! You just reminded me why I don't work on much any more. It seems like something always screws up, costing me more in time and money than if I'd had a professional do it. Course I still try my hand at stuff now and then, sometimes I get lucky. I'm glad this is all working out for you.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 08:26 PM
  #83  
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Just talked to the machinist on the phone. Bike is ready for pick up. He said he was able to tig weld a nut to the end of the bolt that I had left and was able to back the bolt out. That in it self would have only cost me about $40 dollars to accomplish. Now, I asked him to install two studs in both dowel pin locations to make sure this BS never happens to me again. He said because of the threads being botched he had to custom make a stud (this guy is a true machine shop, not just an auto machine shop.) Sunk the studs in for me and made sure everything lined up as it should. He then had to make two special nuts to fit into the support plate due to clearance issues.

All said and done it cost me $280. If I would have taken the bike to the indy bike shop that I like dealing with it was going to cost me $300 in labor alone to change the guides. (Damn factory cross over exhaust) So... I saved a total of $20 changing the guides myself, PLUS I now have two shiny studs in place of the crappy OEM bolts, and I have learned a valuable lesson.

Im happy, and now am smiling. Now onto figuring out how to properly install the SE pushrods WITHOUT snapping the nuts off. (I hear thats a problem)
 
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 08:47 PM
  #84  
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great news!
 
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 08:47 PM
  #85  
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been following and keeping up with what has been going on. glad it worked out for you. wish you the best on your pushrods. if you got threw the other I am sure this will be a breeze for you.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 08:52 PM
  #86  
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Been following this thread.
Glad to see you got it repaired.
An expensive lesson, but it's fixed.

On another note...Helicoil brand helicoils are fine to use.

BUT..has anyone seen/used the Wurth brand, called Time Sert?
I think these are superior to the Helicoil repair systems.
Check 'em out!
http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/l...ce-repair.html
 
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 09:12 PM
  #87  
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Good Deal!
 
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 09:27 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by RFG
Get an easy out. Cut the snapped bolt flush with the heli coil drill the pilot hole and run the easy out in.. Should spin it right out.
never mind. glad u got it fixed!
 
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 10:19 PM
  #89  
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Glad you got it fixed, no doubt you're relieved!
 
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 10:40 PM
  #90  
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+1 on being glad to hear the good news! Screw-ups are just the price of raising your experience level. Don't let it discourage you, forge on!

I'm glad I have some privacy to work in my garage, no one sees my screw ups unless I let them...
 
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