I don't think my high-idle issue has ever started when the bike was warm, but if so certainly not more than one or two.

Weird. My high-idle is almost always a cold-start issue and shutting down with ignition and kill switch (that order) almost always fixes it and it will start again normally thereafter.

I haven't tried the clutch-dragging procedure, but I've never found anything that will bring idle down to normal other than shutting it down as described above.

My very infrequent low-idle problems could be best described as a rough-idle, as it will vacillate between maybe 800-1000rpm in no particular rhythm, but it gives the impression it might die. Your description of "hunting" is accurate for mine too. It never has died and this has worked itself out in a few minutes of running in every case and always happens when the bike is warm, so this seems to be exactly like your problem.

I'm trying to get a grip on this ECM calibration, like anything that would identify it and what it does. I had the SB M-1186 "torque-smoothing calibration" done three days after buying the bike new in 11/06, and the dealer's Digital Technician has never been connected since except when I installed a security system and needed to marry two fobs to the ECM in 09/08. If there was an ECM calibration done at that time I'm not aware of it.

Could you try to find out anything at all about an ECM calibration that might help with the idle issues?

 

Mine does the same no matter what the temps are. The only way to stop the high idle is to kill the bike and restart it after a moment. If anyone finds a answer to the problem I would like to get it fixed for sure also.

 

iclick, I have had high idle at start up before, but attributed it to shutting the motor down with the kill switch. Apparently the ecm reads the last idle prior to shut down with the kill switch, but resets after using the ignition switch (according to a thread on this forum).
FWIW, since I quit using my kill switch - no high idle problems.

 

Not too long after the 07 bikes were released a letter went out to owners regarding a re-flash of the ecm. I believe it added fuel in some areas, maybe reduced some timing.
I'd guess that's what he was referring to.
By the time I received the letter I had already added a PC111 from Fuelmoto and had it tuned. Three dealers and a couple tuners suggested I not get the reflash. I think I may have even checked with Jamie.

 

I mentioned the SB M-1186 "torque-smoothing calibration" above. I had it done in 11/06 three days after buying the bike. At the time Jamie told me it was okay and wouldn't affect the map, so I made no further changes.

Recent references to a download made me hope there was a new one out that would be a magic bullet for the idling problems, but I fear that's an overly optimistic POV.

 

Well, it for sure isn't caused by using the kill switch, as I never do--except that is when it idles fast. For some reason if I hit the kill switch, then turn off the ignition, and reverse that to crank it back up it will usually idle normally for the rest of the day, possibly even weeks or longer.

I think the kill-switch-memory procedure is only on TBW bikes, as I've never heard of this working on our old-fashioned cable models.

 

I received the memo below from HD dated November 2006. It wasn't a recall but it was in response to many early complaints of drive train hammering (rocks in a can) especially in sixth. I had that ECM enhancement download done at 1200 miles. That and or swapping to synthetic oil solved the noise problem for me. I never installed IDS and feel I don't need it. (Straight gear meshing in fifth is music to my ears. )

Any way, that's the first ECM reflash (whatever) I had done on it. Like I said earlier, the drive train is stock - no PCM, no slipons, no stage 1, notta.

Last winter, the dealership did another ECM reflash to address the idle issues. They said it was an update that came out after the one I had done in April of '07.

The engine at times not coming off cruising rpm can be disconcerting to say the least when I let up on the throttle and expect engine braking and instead it keeps on trucking as I enter a corner. It's very weird and I never expected the rpm to stay down around 1000 the first time a tried lugging the engine but it does. I don't think it has been caused by too much air either caused by IAC or and air leak because it happens so infrequently.


A couple of lines didn't copy but below is most of the letter.




Congratulations on the purchase of a 2007 model year Harley-Davidson motorcycle! We trust
you are enjoying the new Twin Cam engine with Cruise Drive 6 speed transmission when you
ride. This letter is to inform you of an enhancement Harley-Davidson is offering you at no
charge to make your ownership experience even more enjoyable.
As you are probably aware, Harley-Davidson expends a significant amount of effort to
continuously improve our products. This effort not only involves in-house testing by our
engineering and product development staff, but also includes important input from our
customers. Conversations with our customers at rallies and Factory Open Houses allow us to
better understand the overall riding habits of a sizable customer base. The information collected
during these activities, in conjunction with the acquisition of other test data, allowed our
engineering team to refine the calibration for the Electronic Fuel Injection system for original
equipment COE)motorcycles, CVO, and all street legal calibrated vehicles.
The refined calibration will smooth the torque curve application in a manner that minimizes high
shock loads to drive train components, which could cause engine damage. For example, high
shock loads could result from lugging the engine during hard acceleration while operating under
1500 RPM. In addition, this refinement will enhance the drive characteristics for the new Twin
Cam engine and, on some models, will improve fuel economy during certain steady state driving
conditions as well.
We are so confident of the positive aspects of this change from a rider's perspective that we


2006. We want you to experience this drivability improvement on your motorcycle as well.
We strongly urge you to have this service performed. You can take advantage of this
enhancement by contacting your selling dealer to schedule an appointment to have it installed, or
by asking to have it installed as part of your next regular maintenance visit. This upgrade should
take approximately 1/2 hour of actual service time, and will be at no charge to you. Actual time
at the dealership will vary due to scheduling logistics. The upgrade is available for stock OE
configuration vehicles as well as those that have had a street legal calibration change installed.
This no charge calibration upgrade offer is valid from now to the end of the warranty period for
your motorcycle.
Once again, we are offering this upgrade in the interest of providing you with the highest possible
level of satisfaction with your Harley-Davidson motorcycle. We hope you will take advantage of
it at your earliest convenience.

 

Subscribing!

I've had no "high idle" problems....I DO have occasional rough "low idle", sometimes even stalling. The bike starts right up. Most times it happens after a highway speed cruise. In anticipation, Im usually 'feathering' the throttle when coming to a stop. Hasnt occured in a while though.

I did email Jamie about it...he informed me of the bulletin; Iclick emailed a copy to me.

Im watching and reading.

Billy G

 

FWIW, my fathers (stock except for Screaming Eagle Slip-on's) 07 Road King is doing the same exact thing. His bike has close to 30k miles, and just started the "High Idle" problem. The "Low Idle" problem happened to him about a month ago and causing his bike to stall. All this started this spring, bike ran fine before winter storage. My 07 Streetglide with 26k miles has yet to come accross any of these problems. Keeping my fingers crossed and watching this post. Thanks everybody for the heads-up!!

 

No symtoms w/mine yet...but only 10,500 miles. Subscribing for future reference if needed.